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TheRealNorthernOutdoorsman
Member
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# Posted: 13 Oct 2020 08:37am
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Hey Firemike,
I think the problem could be a large gap in the wooden backsplash behind the heatshield....I have a large unsealed but hidden hole i have not insulated yet...I noticed late in the evening when I have the kerosene heater on the cabin is warm from knees straight up to the ceiling....I think the airflow is leaking out here behind the hard to get at spot behind the stove...maybee a draft here,cause we get a decent amount of oxygen when its all sealed up and we are inside for someperiod of time...if sealing this tight doesn't do the job I will take the cap off the chimney,try again then try 2 more feet of pipe..then I think I've covered every scenario
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TheRealNorthernOutdoorsman
Member
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# Posted: 13 Oct 2020 08:07pm
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And no DaveBell...its not insulated,just 2 layers of tin....the pipe is straight threw the roof
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TheRealNorthernOutdoorsman
Member
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# Posted: 13 Oct 2020 08:13pm
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I find the plate/blower plate on the top inside of the stove makes it hard to heat the inside of the stove...and makes the actual hole in the top of the stove inaccessible
I heat the interior with a blowtorch and its not enough....I heat the pipe from the outside of the stove and it doesnothing. Ive heated birch with the torch in the stove to create some heat still no smoke goezup. .all into the cabin
....I plugged Alot of gaps and holes in the cabin interior today with fiberglass insulation....im going to do more tomorrow then try to light er again
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DaveBell
Moderator
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# Posted: 13 Oct 2020 08:47pm
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Did a bird or bees build a nest in the pipe? Is the damper in the wrong position? Take the pipe off the stove and look thru it.
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TheRealNorthernOutdoorsman
Member
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# Posted: 13 Oct 2020 09:40pm
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Its clean and clear straight threw
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 13 Oct 2020 11:13pm
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Does that top plate inside come out? Mine does. Just wondering if it's choking it off.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 14 Oct 2020 07:51am
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The top plate is so the fire spends more time in the stove and can give something for the creosote/smoke to burn off on. Keep the baffle.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 14 Oct 2020 09:41am
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Quoting: TheRealNorthernOutdoorsman ...I plugged Alot of gaps and holes in the cabin interior today with fiberglass insulation....im going to do more tomorrow then try to light er again
Plugging air leaks in the walls will not cure your prolem, IMO. If the cabin was actually air tight you can have draft issues that can be cured by providing an air inlet by opening a window or door. Fewer air leaks will mahe the interior more comfortable.
The baffle is a part of the design. Leave it alone.
Is this a new stove? If so have you asked the dealer or mfg for help?
If new did it come completely preassrmbled? I have seen a case where some interior parts were incorrectly installed. I forget the details but when that was fixed the stove worked ok.
I still believe it is the fault of using too much black single wall pipe and not enough insulated pipe through the roof and outside. Some stoves have a maximum length limit for single wall pipe. I have one that states no more than 8 feet of single wall should be used or the draft may be insufficient.
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paulz
Member
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# Posted: 14 Oct 2020 11:00am
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I suggested the baffle plate as a means of testing, like removing the cap or leaving the door open. My used stove came to me with the baffle plate badly warped. Often if you can find what makes things better it helps in finding the problem.
Sorry if it sounded like I suggested leaving it out.
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 14 Oct 2020 02:29pm
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I'm still thinking there just not getting the chimney hot enough. Have you tried leaving the lit news paper in the chimney yet?
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 14 Oct 2020 08:12pm
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Modern stoves make it difficult to actually stick anything up the chimney with all the smoke shelves and all. There must be something wrong (and lest I sound like a broken record I believe it is the chimney configuration).
I have three wood burning, EPA listed wood-burning stoves. All have chimneys that go straight up through the roof following the mfg instructions. I can start a fire in any of them with a fist full of pine needles (I have lots of those), a half dozen sticks of kindling and a few small split log pieces on top. I use a short blast with a propane torch flame amd I close the door and the fire takes off with never an issue. You should be able to have the same experience.
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 14 Oct 2020 08:25pm
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You did not say which model Regency stove you have. So, I picked one at random from their website and downloaded the manual. There is an interesting note on one page. See the picture. If your stove has a similar "blanking plate" has it been removed as noted in the sample image?
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 14 Oct 2020 08:29pm - Edited by: ICC
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I also note there is a minimum flue length listed and this gets longer and longer as altitude increases. Is your installation within those guidelines for your stove? I assume if they have chimney length specs for one of their stoves they will list specs for every model.
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TheRealNorthernOutdoorsman
Member
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# Posted: 19 Oct 2020 02:38pm
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Thanxs EVERYONE for your help!
So yes ICC....I checked the manual too....and the manual of a few Stoves in this style...all said from top of stove to top of chimney a minimum 15 feet of pipe
So my Entire length pipe was only just over 10ft...I added 3 more feet still nothing...I add 2 more feet on top of that at a total of 15 feet 6 inches and the draw almost sucked my lighter outta my hand! Lolol problem Solved!...such agreat satisfaction seeing those flames lickthe top of the stove...and seeing that smoke exit the cap is Such a Thrill!!!
I'm so VERY Greatful to EVERYONE on this forum,every suggestion was a GOOD ONE!...this experience made me Close friends with my Cabin and Stove!...every time we warm out bones by the fire i will not soon forget all the Awsome people working to help us out!
Thanxs a MILLION everyone!!!!   🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
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ICC
Member
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# Posted: 19 Oct 2020 04:36pm
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 I guess the old saying "when all else fails, read the instructions" does have some merit. Glad it worked out.
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