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Borrego
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# Posted: 1 Feb 2016 10:49am
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Hey guys - Although I have been building for quite a while, I have somehow managed to never use a bandsaw......So I need to cut curves on the end of some 4x6 rafters, in the field. Any recommendations? I usually just buy Makita because of their reliablity, but thought I'd ask y'all first. Any tips on use?
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Topper
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# Posted: 1 Feb 2016 01:59pm
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will this help?
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/video/frame-garden-shed-roof.aspx
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Topper
Member
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# Posted: 1 Feb 2016 02:05pm
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On an old episode of This Old House. They held the timbers stationary & made the cuts by moving the band saw mounted on casters.
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 1 Feb 2016 05:51pm
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I think Mafell or Timberwolf carries saws like Topper is describing for serious shops.
I got a Jet when a log home with 5" thick siding needed to have 7 circlehead windows in it. Built 4 horses so that with ply on top they were saw table height. I don't use it a whole lot but it has been around for 15 years or so without a hitch. I had an older craftsman for awhile and it did well for minor use.
Buy extra blades, you'll probably pop a couple learning.
You could also jig it up and use a Prazi or Linear Link... wormdrive with a 12" chainsaw bar. Slow going but depending on which way you want to end up tooled.
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pash
Member
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# Posted: 1 Feb 2016 09:50pm
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you can find some routers that cut 2" or more (or use and endmill they come at least 3"), use a jig and flip.
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2016 08:38am
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You can use a chainsaw by brushing with the chain down to your marked lines. It goes pretty quick when you get some experience. This is how I did the scribes and notches on a log cabin.
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Borrego
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2016 10:16am
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Wow - now I have no clue....(not that I ever did). I know there are so many ways to cut this, I'll just have to figure what I am most comfortable with. One of the videos show the guy using a jigsaw, and that would be easiest, but that must be one stiff blade to not bend....
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Dekagoldwingers
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2016 12:25pm
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Jigsaws work well, but spend the many and get a strong one, then get the best blades you can find. They will serve you well. Cheap blades are a waste if time. Cut the work immediately beside the line with the saw then sand to the line. Get a slim belt hand sander if there are power sanders that use the slim long belts(about 24") that work well for this kind of thing. Experiment with a piece of scrap, you will find it works well. Cheers
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Dekagoldwingers
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2016 12:27pm
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Just saw a hand belt file on harbour freight for $34
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creeky
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2016 02:06pm
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I have cut kerfs with the circular saw, knocked 'em out with a hammer and then finished with a sharp chisel. I used a belt sander to finish.
If the work is to be exposed a gouge chisel leaving ridge lines might be a nice effect. And that would be real fast.
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NorthRick
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2016 02:34pm
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One more option, if the cuts aren't too detailed, is to use a sawzall and clean up with a sander.
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 2 Feb 2016 05:57pm
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My .02, Pash nailed it, the most bang for the buck and very accurate, little sanding. A heavy plunge router taking multiple steps from each side would do it in pretty short order and you are left with what is probably the most versatile tool. The big router I use for making things like timber stair notches is the large Porter Cable, at one time it was the highest horsepower handheld machine and it has held up to that type of heavy work. If you go with a smaller router just make more shallower passes.
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Donkeydave
Member
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# Posted: 3 Feb 2016 08:51am
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A router, definitely.
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Borrego
Member
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# Posted: 3 Feb 2016 10:27am
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Ah ha, a router, eh? Never woulda thought of that..thanks, guys! I'll report back.....
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 11 Feb 2016 10:57pm - Edited by: Don_P
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I got drafted for an explorer project and played in the shop today with bandsaw and router, thought it might be of interest.
1st shot is a bandsawn pattern. I cut out one of the gears carefully and then sanded to the line making a part that will also serve as a pattern
2nd pic is the next part rough trimmed just a little outside of the line
3rd I attached the pattern to the rough trimmed part and used a laminate trim bit with a bottom bearing the same diameter as the bit. By running the bearing on the pattern it duplicates the pattern. The pattern took over an hour, the duplicates took much less time. If you can figure out how to jig it, a router can do just about anything.
4th voila. I repeated that again for a gear train on the opposite side of the project.
Bearing-over bits with a top mounted bearing are also available if you need to plunge or work from both sides such as the rafter tails, usually in 1/2" diameter.
gearpat2.jpg
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gearrough2.jpg
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gearrout2.jpg
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geartrain2.jpg
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Borrego
Member
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# Posted: 12 Feb 2016 09:43am
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Thanks Don, looks great! I ended up going with a bandsaw, Milwaukee to be exact. Like you say, making the jig takes a while, the cuts are then easy.....
Curved end and front birdsmouth
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Seat cut
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Rafters up
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