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ladyslipper
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 12:59pm
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Hello:
I am wondering if anyone has any ideas for flooring at the camp. We need something that is very durable and easy to clean. Have been looking at various "waterproof" types of laminate but I am not sure how waterproof they are. Any hints would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Steve961
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 01:14pm
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I installed laminate flooring in my cabin about 4 years ago, and while I like it, it's definitely not waterproof. If I ever have to replace my flooring, I would strongly consider the latest vinyl planks that click together like laminate. The newest ones have nice looking wood grains and are waterproof to boot. They are somewhat more expensive than laminate, but the water resistance would be worth it to me.
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ladyslipper
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 01:15pm
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Thanks for the reply! What thickness is your laminate?
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ColdFlame
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 02:28pm
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Vinyl plank flooring - absolutely bullet proof, easy to install, and if you get the right type, it's water proof.
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Tarmetto
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 02:29pm
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We just installed SmartCore flooring in our home from Lowes. It's 100% waterproof! Can be installed directly over any subfloor or bare concrete.
We are VERY happy with this product! We have 2 Boxers in the home, and so far they have not scratched it. It's not as slick to them as the standard laminate flooring that we installed upstairs.
The only problem we had during installation was getting the ends to lock....there's a knack to it that will learn as you go. Long sides lock similar to standard laminate.
We floated this in our den, but glued it down in the adjoining bath and large laundry room. Mainly because the floor there sloped to a floor drain.
If we had it to do over again...we'd glue it all down.
The floated area is a bit "clackity" in places as it wasn't glued down.
We plan to install this same floor in our cabin!
One heads up...they say to use a rubber mallet to "lock" the end joints...buy a "white" one as a black one will leave black marks on the floor.
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ladyslipper
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 02:43pm
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Thanks so much for the ideas! I will look up the Smart Core. ColdFlame, what is the "right type" !
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Ontario lakeside
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 02:44pm - Edited by: Ontario lakeside
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Hey Ladyslipper
I think this would be a good solution, I intended to do this before we got some free oak. this might be a little more labour but it looks great and with a durable finish would hold up well.
http://www.picklee.com/2012/12/12/farmhouse-wide-plank-floor-made-from-plywood-diy/
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ColdFlame
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 03:15pm
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Quoting: ladyslipper ColdFlame, what is the "right type" !
There are dozens of different companies. The floors that Tarmetto mentioned are Vinyl-plank flooring (and are water proof). Some of them are only water resistant, but the companies are usually very quick to advertise that they're water proof, so it's easy to tell. 
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ladyslipper
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 03:21pm
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Thanks again! Will check them out
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 07:00pm
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Ceramic tile over cement fiber backer board.
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Julie2Oregon
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 07:30pm
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I plan to go with vinyl, too. I have it in my current home and am very pleased. It's easy to install, easy to clean, stands up to spills, 3 dogs running around, etc.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 08:40pm
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Quoting: ladyslipper but I am not sure how waterproof they are.
Why does it have to be waterproof. How about water resistant? I have laminate and it looks like plastic. It has seams and a blue foam pad under it, if I spileld water and never cleaned it up, it could seep through. I have plywood, no chip board, so not even sure that would harm anything. Its durable, it cleans easy, no glue involved and I'll be darned if I can even dent it.
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silverwaterlady
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# Posted: 19 Jan 2015 10:38pm
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Round and round we went on flooring. Decided on a cork floor. It's t&g lock in place. It has a 3D imprint of a wood plank. Used in commercial applications(restaurants and museums) and residental. Like the cork because it can be installed on a sub floor,has insulation built into the plank, it will be warm and cushioned(unlike a wood floor,our first choice).
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ladyslipper
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2015 02:51pm - Edited by: ladyslipper
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Toyota , I was just worried that muddy boots (dogs too) would damage the floor if it wasn't waterproof. I have laminate in the basement at home and a bit of water (from a freezer leak) damaged it somewhat. I really like your laminate floor! Silverwaterlady, is the cork a lot more cost than something like laminate?
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ladyslipper
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# Posted: 20 Jan 2015 02:55pm
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I have a question about the ceramic tile. I was told that because our cabin is unheated most of the time (until we visit and light a fire!) ceramic tiles would crack. Has anyone else heard this? They sure would be durable and easy to keep clean.
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Jim in NB
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2015 06:28am
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I would say keep it simple and easy to clean. For me that rules out ceramic tile, cork and a bunch of other stuff. I am leanign towards painting my floor - some neat pattern ideas out there on the web and then a high quality finish that will withstand dirt, beer and my three golden retrievers!
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silverwaterlady
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2015 08:35am
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Hi ladyslipper,I am not sure on the cost per sq ft. I will let you know when I find out.
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Bret
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2015 08:37am
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I've painted our cabin floor(advantech subflooring) with Sherman Williams Amorseal Rexthane. Need a respirator, goes on like water with mohair roller. It's expensive, but ends up being about 75 cents a square foot after two coats. Now that is inexpensive. It is tough stuff and waterproof. Looks great. Gives the advantech a textured slate type effect.
Bret
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Malamute
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# Posted: 21 Jan 2015 12:46pm - Edited by: Malamute
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I havent heard of tile cracking from cold.
I'm planning red or white oak with tile in the kitchen and bathroom areas, and maybe near the back door. I love the look of old, lived on oak, like old stores or houses have. It would be raw and I'd finish it. The pre-finished didnt appeal to me.
I've installed laminate and been around it. I just dont care for it much, the feel walking on it barefoot, the sound of walking on it, and how "perfect" it always looks, until scratched or damaged. Different strokes I guess.
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Jim in NB
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# Posted: 22 Jan 2015 07:18am
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There is another thread on here about interior inspiration pics - Anna posted some on end grain wood flooring - looks stunning and I am now leaning that way - certainly worth a look
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CanadianNorth
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# Posted: 22 Jan 2015 08:07am - Edited by: CanadianNorth
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My vote is for vinyl flooring. It's cheap, easy to install, easy to clean, weather proof, and modern products are attractive. It may not be the most fashionable, but heck, I'm not here to live my life through the eyes of others.
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silverwaterlady
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# Posted: 22 Jan 2015 01:11pm
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ladyslipper, the floor is by WE Cork,the Serenity Collection in Tobacco Shed,$5.89 sq ft. We love the look of this floor but need to order a sample and take it up to our cabin to make sure it fits the rustic look we like. I've only viewed the planks Online and and know things can look different in person.
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SE Ohio
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# Posted: 22 Jan 2015 06:42pm
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Our heated home has a tile floor. By 5th year , much grout was cracked. By 10th anniversary of this floor, about 1/4 of tiles have fine cracks. This is with professional installation with extra subfloor per mfg'er spec. Will eventually replace tile with laminate. Your mileage may vary.
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Malamute
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# Posted: 22 Jan 2015 08:42pm
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Quoting: SE Ohio Our heated home has a tile floor. By 5th year , much grout was cracked. By 10th anniversary of this floor, about 1/4 of tiles have fine cracks. This is with professional installation with extra subfloor per mfg'er spec. Will eventually replace tile with laminate. Your mileage may vary.
Have you checked the floor joists for span rating, or are you on a slab?
What was your subfloor material?
I havent had any grout or tile crack in the places I've built. I go up a step or two the chart on the span rating when doing the floors. I've seen houses that were overspanned, the floors flexed when you walked on them and could feel it easily. I think it would be difficult if not impossible to keep tile on overspanned floors. May not be the issue, just a suggestion.
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SE Ohio
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# Posted: 23 Jan 2015 07:59am
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Malamute,
Don't see any rating listed on the joists
Concrete board was installed over existing wood sub floor (with old vinyl left in place). You must have done something right in your construction, as I've commiserated with many other tile floor owners. Would probably be better with a slab.
On a side note, the builders grade carpet in part of the same house has held up much better than the "upgrade" replacement carpet in other areas. Gravitating toward laminate replacement.
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Malamute
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# Posted: 23 Jan 2015 12:23pm - Edited by: Malamute
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Quoting: SE Ohio Malamute, Don't see any rating listed on the joists
You need to know the brand and the series, usually stamped in ink on the sides of the beams, then you can look up the span rating on the companies information online.
The series number is a combination of dimensions and thickness of the I section. Unless its natural dimensional lumber, in which case span rating charts are available for that also.
Are there any cross braces between supports?
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Don_P
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# Posted: 23 Jan 2015 01:51pm
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Malamute is on to the same thing I was thinking, generally a tile problem like that is related to too much deflection in the joists. Throw typical maximum span ratings out the window, especially with sawn dimensional lumber and go with an improved deflection, or stiffer, floor. Code limits are minimums and allow for 1/360 of span deflection. For tile l/480 or stiffer and shorter spans is a better choice. Girders also factor into the mix, if the joists rest on a beam, the beam's deflection adds to the joist deflection. Cross bracing or blocking has been found to add little if anything to the stiffness of a floor, there's an NAHB study from the 60's or early 70's on it, but it doesn't hurt either and solid blocking helps with fire.
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SE Ohio
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# Posted: 23 Jan 2015 03:39pm
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2 x 8 dimensional lumber, but we won't be upgrading
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Malamute
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# Posted: 23 Jan 2015 08:03pm - Edited by: Malamute
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How far is the span? How far apart are they?
Is the bottom of the subfloor marked as to thickness? Should be stamped somewhere.
Is the lumber marked as to species and grade? (like Hem/Fir, etc, No 2 and better)
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KinAlberta
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# Posted: 29 Mar 2015 01:32am - Edited by: KinAlberta
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We have two old cabins each with traditional linoleum (not vinyl) floor tiles. Both have held up amazingly well over their 50+ years. The only problems have appeared in our main cabin where storms have forced water down a wood stove chimney and then it dripped on the floor then sat there while the cabin was vacant - on several occasions - and where water by a kitchen cabinet was also left to soak into a rug and then down into the seam and separate the tile slightly from the flooring. Unfortunately that is enough damage to force us to look at re-flooring the entire cabin. Otherwise, that flooring has held up to our temperature extremes, snowmobilers and wet boots, wet dogs and kids, etc. every well. (Just think how well old true lino held up in most commercial stores where it was used for decades, and still is.)
That said, I'm looking for a good wood-look floating vinyl plank for a better appearance or even considering slate for a nice rustic look. Since our cabins are on concrete blocks though, I'm worried that any mortared product might end up with cracks across the room should the building settle even just slightly.
One thing I really don't care for though is laminate flooring when it's placed on a foam underlay. I hate the squishy feel of such floors.
Also, I used Home Depot's Allure snap vinyl plank in our home's basement and found it quite difficult to work (to get straight and to get the seams tight) with the long 30' stretches. It was great to use in smaller areas.
Anyone with other experience with other products? I think it's Armstrong that has a fiber type of product that is quite indestructible.
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