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Smawgunner
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 01:13pm
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Hey all, I bought my first chainsaw, a Stihl 18 inch. Out of the box it was hard to start and had a bit of trouble running. (Gas was properly mixed) I took it back and they drained the fuel, put a full tank in and told me it runs fine. Picked it up, let it sit for a couple months, and now it won't start. Had it on full choke no choke, tried starting and nothing. In the manual it says be careful because even a child can start it! How many pulls should it take to get this thing goin? And speaking of children, it would take a child's foot to fit in the handle to hold it down while starting like it recommends in the manual!
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Gary O
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 01:50pm
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Personal experience.......turn the toggle switch to the on position.....OK...OK....you did that. IF...you left it sit for months with fuel in the tank, you may now have a brittle diaphragm. Other than that, on the up side, your right arm and shoulder has now had a rigorous experience..........change arms.....muscle balance.
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Just
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 01:52pm
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Are you setting your the throttle trigger when you try to start ??
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Malamute
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 01:55pm - Edited by: Malamute
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I usually drop start mine, not recommended if you haven't done it or seen it done.
My older Stihl often starts pretty easy, even after sitting for a year. I've never put anything in the gas, but its a good idea. Using gas with no ethanol may help with storage. Some stations have it in premium, not regular. Theres a web site that has info on ethanol free gas in your area.
I found a certain combination of choke, half choke, certain number of pulls each way etc, that generally works. Several on full choke (no trigger), several on half choke, if no joy, a few more on full choke. If still no go, several with throttle trigger wide open and no choke to get some air in, then start over. Even after running a bit, if it sits a few minutes, it often likes a little choke to start, then its good instantly after.
http://pure-gas.org/
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Smawgunner
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 02:53pm - Edited by: Smawgunner
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It was only left unattended for 2 months so the gas should be still good. This model has no prime on it and the throttle is not supposed to be used on start up. You have to hold the bar across the top while pulling the start cord, so you can't really mess with the throttle unless you have three hands LOL. I've got two herniated discs in my back so it would help greatly if I could start this thing with one or two pulls! My generator starts on the first pull and so I'm baffled at this!
The toggle looks like this:
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Update: viewed "How to start your Stihl" on youtube. Learned a couple of things I'll try. There is an initial "burp" you should experience in the cold choke position. BEFORE your next pull, you MUST move the choke position to the next position (Warm start) or you'll flood the carb if you continue to pull. I did get that very very slight burp but ignored it so maybe I flooded it. ???
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 03:31pm - Edited by: bldginsp
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I've heard that ethanol in gas messes with the diaphragms in the carburetor if the gas is left in there to sit. I always run mine dry before storage. After having it for 3 years I rebuilt the carburetor, which is really just replacing the diaphragms.
But this shouldn't be an issue with a new chainsaw. I think you need to find the right combination of settings when starting- for me and my Husqvarna, when cold I start it on full choke, it starts in a few pulls. When warm but not hot I have to start it on half choke, on full choke it will flood. When hot, no choke.
My Poulan pole trimmer (chainsaw on a pole) will not start from cold unless I take off the spark plug and pour fuel into the cylinder. Poulan is the cheap brand and you shouldn't have to do this with a Stihl.
I suggest you try to find out if it's flooded or dry when you are trying to start and it won't. After a few pulls, pull the sparkplug and see if it's wet or dry. If dry, dump half a teaspoon of gas in there, replace the plug and see if it fires. If so, that tells you it's not getting fuel. If the plug is wet, that may tell you the choke setting is flooding the unit, in which case you may need to always start it on half choke, or pull a few times with no choke, then set half choke, etc. Once you know whether it's flooding or staying dry you can take appropriate action.
Or follow Just's advice:
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Just
Member
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 03:48pm
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take it back to the dealer and say show me..!!
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Don_P
Member
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 07:48pm
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I agree with Just, get em to show you. I've had several Stihl's, when new they have all been easier than your's sounds. My old 034 is now somewhat temperamental and Malamute's description is pretty much spot on for how I start it. I drop start as well, you can do this with the chain brake set. My personal feeling is that you can spin it up faster that way. Also check your air filter, if it's covered with dust it isn't getting enough air. I use the chain brake often, pretty much if I move the chain brake gets clicked, I walk to the next cut and unset the brake. I've slipped on the hill and fallen, chest onto the bar of a running saw. I was very thankful the brake was set. Get someone to show you how to bore cut and do that to any tree that'll accept it. Homeowners tend treat a chainsaw far too casually. I own many saws, all the way up to a 4' circular sawmill, a chainsaw is far and away the most dangerous of them.
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Al Burton
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 08:17pm
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My brother had the same issue with a new Stihl. I had him bring it over to me and found the spark gap was set WAY to small. Reset to spec and it now works better than it ever did. Worth a look I guess!
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 09:28pm
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Very good hint / advice regarding the use of the brake while not sawing. I do that too. Chain saws make an ugly mess of a cut in flesh.
I've been using high octane alchol free gasoline in my 2 Husky saws for a few years now and do believe they run better and longer than before.
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Malamute
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# Posted: 15 Nov 2014 11:47pm - Edited by: Malamute
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Whats that about having to hold the chain brake to start it?
I never have mine on, starting or otherwise, unless having a saw passed up on a wall to me by a rope or something like that. If it gets put on accidently before starting it, it bogs the saw down from reving up when first starting.
I may be a fossil and not using the brake enough, but I pay attention to where the bar is all the time and don't take chances with it,...other than not using the chain brake. Makes sense when on rough ground, but I don't do that much I guess.
I hurt some discs in my back and tore some stuff in my shoulder. I've had someone else start my saw when I use it, and I cant use it much. I looked around online, a couple people have figured out ways to use an electric drill to start one. I was trying to figure out a way to put an electric starter on it. I have a cheap electric saw to try out, it may be enough to cut up slabs. A really good electric chain saw costs a LOT!
Electric = no starting, and less weight.
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Steve_S
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2014 08:25am
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I don't use a Stihl anymore, have a Husky 576xpat now BUT like the Husky, Stihls don't like ethanol blend gas. I only use 94 octane in mine... especially important in cold weather.
I second MtnDon Chain Break ON when not cutting or starting, seen the results and not something you want to experience, regardless of any equipment gear you have on.
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beachman
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2014 10:33am
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I have a Stihl aslo and it starts and works great. I too "drop" start it and the comments about the use of the brake is invaluable. I always treat this beast with the utmost respect, but you have to be diligent 100% of the time.
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Mtnviewer
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2014 12:06pm - Edited by: Mtnviewer
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It may be flooded & sounds like it to me if you ignored the initial "burp" & did not push in the choke to warm start before continuing.
If flooded, it should say what to do in your manual. My Husky manual says to turn the choke off & hold down the throttle & pull & pull & pull until it starts. It is not easy holding down the throttle & saw with one hand or foot etc. & pulling with the other. It always works for me but may require many pulls, maybe more than you expect. It is easier pulling if your saw has a decompression valve button activated.
You could also try removing the spark plug & letting it sit for a while to dry out before you do the above. Keep the chain brake on. It is awkward pulling & a royal PITA.
Is it possible to drop start a cold chainsaw? Mine always requires half a dozen pulls cold, then a start burp & then choke in & then one pull to start. If it's warm, then a drop start is no problem.
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Malamute
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2014 04:01pm - Edited by: Malamute
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Under most conditions, it seems to me drop starting is easier. It also turns the motor over faster, as somebody said earlier. If it takes many pulls and wears you out, then that's another matter, but its rarely been an issue to me.
Don't know if everyone is on the same page drop starting. I hold the saw and trigger in my right hand, pull the starter with my left. It easy to operate the throttle and choke that way and seems more natural to me than any other way I've started a saw.
FWIW, I've had my Stihl 036 since the mid 90's and haven't ever rebuilt the carb or anything like that so far. Have cut quite a bit of firewood and built several cabins with it. Sure cant complain about its reliability and service.
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PatrickH
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# Posted: 16 Nov 2014 07:36pm
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This is how the dealer told me to start mine"Set full choke with the throttle locked full, pull until it pops once,click choke up to the next position pull until it starts "usually 1 or 2 pulls for me .I use old 6 months to a year all the time whatever high octane ethanol fuel they sell, saw doesnt seem to care my brother and I both use stihl ms290 and start them this way with no issues.
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TheWildMan
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2014 09:36am
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if its a newer saw, does it have a decompression switch? my jonsered 2152 has a push in knob on the side, press it in before starting, press the gas bulb 5 or 6 times, pull back the choke and pull 3 times to fire it, then turn off the choke, press the knob again, and pull, usually starts on the first. if i don't use the decompression knob it becomes hard to pull.
could be any number of things, but i would say 80% of the stuff that comes into the shop (i work in a chainsaw repair shop/dealership) has a problem related to fuel used. use only premium gas without ethanol, if you can't get it at the pumps then buy it in the premixed cans. ethanol pulls water out of the air (the way dry gas sucks up water in your cars gas tank) so over a couple weeks it will water down your gas, it also separates and causes problems, and over a few months can eat away and disolve your gas lines.
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Everett
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2014 05:21pm
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I'm with Mtnviewer. I have three Stihl saws and they have all way out performed my expectations. But you can flood them if you are not pretty careful. Even if the first fire is more feel than anything you hear, take it off of choke and give it a pull or three before going back to choke.
Good luck!
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gsreimers
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# Posted: 17 Nov 2014 07:52pm
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FRESH GAS !!!! I have 2 echo chain saws, one new this year, one new last year. In Minnesota, it is pretty tough to find gas that has no ethanol. If I use fresh gas, bought that day, both my saws run great. That same gas 2 weeks later and they will not start or run worth a darn.
I have a local station that has non oxygenated gas for use in other that normal cars. I have been running my saws on the same tank of this for 3 months.
I did not believe it when the dealer told me that but it makes a world of difference.
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Mtnviewer
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 01:04am
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My Husqvarna 365SE is about 12 years old now & has run 10% ethanol gas fuel all that time & so far, seems normal. It starts fine, usually first pull when warm, 5 or so pulls when cold. It's also never required servicing by the dealer. I replaced the fuel filter once, spark plug every year or two & do the regular chain & drum maintenance as per the manual.
Like the OP, I've flooded it on occasion, usually thinking I need the choke after it's been sitting for a few hours, vs. first trying it without the choke. Then it might take me 30 pulls? to get the fuel cleared.
Don't know if it would run or start better with no ethanol, as it isn't an option in my rural area. I also add fuel stabilizer with mix that doesn't come with it, but the Husky or Stihl mixes have fuel stabilizers in them. Sometimes I don't get through the fuel mix for 2-3 mths & it seems okay. I try to run my saw dry before not using it for a while, but when I can't, there doesn't seem to be any ill effects. It just starts & runs with the ethanol fuel mix.
Here's hoping the OP just flooded it?
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Malamute
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 11:20am - Edited by: Malamute
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Quoting: Mtnviewer but the Husky or Stihl mixes have fuel stabilizers in them.
Interesting, I didn't know that. I've always used the Stihl mixing oil, and have left my saw for long periods, like a year or so several times, with zero prep. I've tried to get good gas, but haven't always, and just used what I could get easily with no extra precautions, or problems so far.
Many carbs will gets a varnish like crud built up in them when gas evaporates over time. I assumed I didn't have the problem because of the oil in the gas. It may be that, and it may be fuel conditioners added to the mixing oil.
I've also used untreated gas in my vehicles that was between 2 and 6 years old without the problems many have. The older stuff had a varnish like smell, I mixed it with fresh gas about 50/50 and didn't have much trouble.
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Don_P
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# Posted: 18 Nov 2014 10:52pm
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With old gas I've generally been fortunate but I have had several gummed up carbs as well. I use ethanol gas in everything, and have dissolved the fuel lines on the 034 Stihl. I'm assuming after 2 attempts to rebuild that the particles clogged the carb beyond my abilities, I just replaced it. Another part I replaced with aftermarket is the recoil starter assembly. It's metal rather than plastic and a much better part.
I like the idea of checking the plug gap.
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jjlrrw
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2014 09:34pm
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My Husky I learned if cold, push primer 8 times, full choke pull once or twice until it fires then turn off choke and pull throttle and pull it one more time and it starts, play with throttle until it warms up.
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NhLiving
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# Posted: 24 Nov 2014 12:42am - Edited by: NhLiving
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I do about the same as jjlrrw stated with my little excho 370. I always treat the gas with Stabil Ethanol treatment. And make sure to start it once in a while if i am not using it. I do this with all my gas engines and it seems to be very effective.(Snowmobiles,Atv's, Snowblower,Chainsaws, Generators) Also if you plan to store it for a while, grab a can of stabil fogging spray and follow the directions. Works like a charm and these are just good habits to have good working engines for years and years.
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Littlecooner
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2014 07:14pm
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Some people are slow learners that the ONLY gas to put in a chain saw is 100% gas (no ethanol) of 93 octane or higher. OK, use what you want to but do not complain when it takes more than to pull to start it
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Littlecooner
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2014 07:47pm - Edited by: Littlecooner
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Some people are slow learners that the ONLY gas to put in a chain saw is 100% gas (no ethanol) of 93 octane or higher. OK, use what you want to but do not complain when it takes more than two pull to start the dang thing
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Mtnviewer
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# Posted: 27 Nov 2014 12:50am
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No offence Littlecooner, but I think that there are more variables to starting & running & maintaining a chainsaw than just the type of fuel.
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FishHog
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# Posted: 27 Nov 2014 08:20am
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Quoting: Mtnviewer No offence Littlecooner, but I think that there are more variables to starting & running & maintaining a chainsaw than just the type of fuel.
Agreed, but good fuel will go a long way towards preventing a large majority of the issues people regularly deal with.
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