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fthurber
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# Posted: 20 Jun 2010 01:19pm
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I am starting work on a 10x12 cabin in the woods and want to add a small woodstove. How do I run the stovepipe through the roof without toasting the roof?
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RDLong70
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# Posted: 20 Jun 2010 02:38pm
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Why not out the side? The less holes in your roof the better. ;)
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fthurber
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# Posted: 20 Jun 2010 03:07pm
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It draws better if the pipe goes straight up but yes the outside seems more sensible. Does that mean I have to build a chimney?
I seem to remember a roof attachment for the stovepipe; it was a large metal plate so as to insulate the roof from the heat....
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lawnjoky
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# Posted: 20 Jun 2010 07:31pm
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Lips,
My place started out as a 10x12 and I put a wood stove in it. Look around the site and you will find some pics of my installation. What type of roof do you have? Is there a ceiling?
Jocko
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fthurber
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# Posted: 21 Jun 2010 06:14pm - Edited by: fthurber
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I have not built the place yet. Still in the planing stages. I have mowed down the trees and am starting to dig out the holes for sonatubes.
There is a shed/cabin (looks like a sugar shack but it cannot be this far south) with metal stovepipe going straight up thought the roof but it is integrated into a large sheetmetal plate. Maybe I have to go boldly knock on the door and ask....
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lawnjoky
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# Posted: 22 Jun 2010 03:19pm
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Lips:
If you are using corrigated steel roofing there is a flexible roof jack (flashing) that has a high tempeture silicone seal, that is what I uses. The last couple of feet inside you need to use double wall stove pipe. The pipe specs will tellyou what clearances you need from the wood. I made up some supports out of angle steel for inside. Outside I continue the flue up past the ridge line of the roof and supported it with supports made of steel conduit with the ends flattened. Put a good spark arrestor cap on it.
Jocko
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drmargy
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# Posted: 6 Jul 2010 08:26pm
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I have a stovepipe chimney from my wood stove that exits out through the wall. There is a large metal plate with a built in heat shield for the pipe to go through and protect the wall. Because the exterior pipe doesn't go high enough I was getting lots of smoke blow back. I've added a weather vane chimney cap and that has cured the problem. - Margy
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larry
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# Posted: 7 Jul 2010 10:33pm
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do your self a favor, don't go cheap on a stack. go through the roof, it will draft better than through the wall. a quality hardware store will have a through roof stove pipe kit with flashing, anchor and ceiling shield. fallow the stove makers recommendation as to flew height
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raven62
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# Posted: 18 Sep 2010 08:00am
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i heat my garage with a woodstove i run the pipe thru the wall and then up the side used a metal plate and wrapped pipe with fire blanket where it goes thru wall been using for years works great
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Clay N Feathers
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2010 12:43am
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One thing I would add. Be careful in the size of wood stove you buy. One too large will literally run you out of the cabin with too much heat. I have a 10'x12' duck shack here in Alaska and I use a very small caboose pot belly. The cabin is uninsulated and it needs to get fairly cold before we use it.
My other cabin a 12" x 20" with high ceiling I heat with a Vermont Castings, "Aspen" which accepts 16" logs. It is definately too big for a 10"x12". This just from my experience.
Steve
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rpw
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2010 11:53am
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http://www.fourdog.com makes potable stoves designed for wall tents and packing in and out. I use a four dog stove in my cabin. Very well made, very portable, and it heats like crazy.
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fpw
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2010 11:58am
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http://peelinglogs.blogspot.com/2009/11/installing-wood-stove.html
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Kithera
Member
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# Posted: 21 Sep 2010 12:20pm
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I wonder if you could make a micro-sized rocket mass heater.
http://www.richsoil.com/rocket-stove-mass-heater.jsp
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Moontreeranch
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# Posted: 23 Sep 2010 12:22pm
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Single wall pipe up to the "Class A" double wall pipe with goes through a Cathedral ceiling unit. Class A extends through roof, (2" clearance to combustibles). Roof Fashing, rain cap and storm collar finish it off.
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pheasantplucker
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# Posted: 13 Nov 2010 07:23am
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I agree with Clay & Feathers...It won't take much to heat a 10x12. Go small.
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GREATROSE77
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2010 10:02pm
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I agree as well, I have 16x16 cabin. 2 sticks of wood and I'm opening doors. A small stove is best. Actually, my little Buddy Heater does the trick.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 21 Nov 2010 10:47pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: SquidLips I am starting work on a 10x12 cabin in the woods and want to add a small woodstove. How do I run the stovepipe through the roof without toasting the roof?
You will need the firebox which is a 12"X12" unit and it gives you the needed air space at the celing.. But from that box up, it all needs to be the insulated stainless pipe which is about $150 for every 4 foot section. You can go single or double wall on the inside down to the stove. Double isnt too bad in price. Pay attention to the stove mfg clearance guidelines, ie 18" from combustible wall etc. You can but a pre made hearth. I'm going to go double wall on the inside, because I know my stove will run me out of the place, so reducing output on the pipe will be helpful
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 23 Nov 2010 01:17am
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Lowes sells a Selkirk brand ceiling mount kit, 6 inch pipe, that is very good (class A) and includes the ceiling mount support, insulation shield, roof flashing (up to 6:12 pitch), chimney cap and stove pipe adapter at a package price that is hard to beat. It's for a straight up, through the roof installation. The insulated pipe and black pipe is extra.
Cabins as small as 10x12 are very easy to overheat with wood heat. We have a VC Aspen in our 16x30 and it is easy to overstoke. The thought about resisting adding that log log is very valid.
The important things have been mentioned; follow the minimum clearances from the stove manufacturer, do not try shortcuts with non insulated pipe when passing through a wall or ceiling or roof.
Give some thought to a direct vent propane heater. Their advantage is the ease to turn off the heat.
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fasenuff
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2010 10:50am
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I used tripple wall pipe to go through the ceiling and roof. When the stove was test fired and a fire built up to run away heat, when the sides of my cast iron stove was cherry red on the sides the tripple wall pipe was still where I could place my hand on it. But I still used a ceiling sheild and a roof mount that was up to specs. Also I learned by reseaching on the net that black pipe is made for wood stoves and the less expensive galvanized pipe usually is not. I also learned by researching that my stove required a minmum of 3' clearence all around it for safety UNLESS an APPROVED reduction system is used. By doing research I was able to learn how to reduce that 3' clearence to 12".
After installing the stove and fire it up to worse case point I was able to make sure it was safe and would not burn down the place. But I used the correct materials and installed them properly with the right fasteners, caulks, and in the proper way.
Above all else, check to see what the manufacturer says and follow the guide lines they recommend. Take a short cut here or buy the cheaper product and it will be an expensive and possibly deadly lesson to learn. Spend a little extra and get the better products and save yourself a lot.
Different stoves require different approaches to install them. Know what yours requires. Then if possible, over build. This one place not to take any short cuts. A lower priced screw will rust out very fast here. A lower priced caulk may not hold up to the extreme heat and might even burn. A cheaper and thinner pipe will not stand up if the fire gets too hot or if you get a flue fire. The wrong type of ceiling pass through may let the cieling joists get hot and over time burn. Too close to the walls or furniture may cause it to smolder while you are asleep and kill you or catch fire and burn down the cabin. There are maximum temps allowed on walls because over time materials can slowly become more readily able to catch fire even at lower temps. Know these and check for them.
Do not go to the store and look for the best prices. Go and compare quality. Read the package. Furnace pipe is not wood stove pipe. High heat silicone is not good sealer for wood stove pipe. They make a caulk that is and it is high priced. Pay it! That way you can live to complain about the high prices later and not hunt for someone else to blame. And let's face it, funerals are a heck of a lot higher. Insurance companies will not pay off on a poorly installed wood stove that burns down your place. Do it right the first time.
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lawnjoky
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2010 05:49pm
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I disagree with a lot of what was said above. 30 years ago triple wall was the standard. These days there is double wll piped design and approved for wood stoves. I don't understand the comments about silicone. Modern high tempeture roof jacks (flashings) have a special high tempeture silicone ring for a seal. That should be the only silicone around unless you are caulking the roof jack, the use high temp caulking. The set backs in the instructions are written by lawyers. You can prudently vary but proceed with caution. The comment about insurance isn't totally correct, insurance covers lots of dumb stuff by homeowners. The comment was overbroad and misleading. In regards to stoves I have used cheapos, expensive units and home made ones. They all worked fine if installed with prudence. Currently my cabin has a $150 Harbor Frieght stove in it. Not the best by far but it works just fine.
Jocko
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fasenuff
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# Posted: 26 Nov 2010 08:30pm - Edited by: fasenuff
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The set backs are determined by the Underwriters Labratories after they test the stoves for safety. Not a bunch of lawyers.
Yes there is some excelent double wall pipe and it is good stuff. I used triple wall. Better to have more than enough than just enough.
There is more than one type of high heat caulk. What may be good in one application may not work for stoves. Get the right stuff.
Did not say athing about silicone roof jacks. I was talking about the silicone caulk that is "high heat". A lot of that stuff will not work for stove pipe. Read the labels on some of them and they will give the temp ratings.
Ask your insurance man if you install your stove using improper materials and your house burns down will they pay. A lot of insurance companies require that they inspect your installation before they will cover you.
As you said and I was trying to say, use good prudence when installing a wood stove. Why take a chance.
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Bambi
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# Posted: 17 Mar 2011 05:50pm
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lawnjoky
You guys seem to know what you're talking about. I have a peculiar situation in my underground storm shelter. From the inside out the ceiling is metal to 6" solid cement (not concrete) including 1/2" rebar squares and then to dirt. I had a bad condensation problem from the metal ceiling. They just sprayed closed-cell foam on the ceiling (problem gone). My new concern is the area right around the wood stove pipe that goes straight up thru the ceiling. They did NOT spray 11/2-2' out from the stove pipe. The foam is flammable when exposed to direct flame. I need to know how and what (to use) to protect about a 3-4' area around this stove pipe to keep the foam from flaming up. That metal stayed warm well after the stove pipe turned cold. I know the cement is holding the heat...all walls and the floor are cement also. Need to know what to do from this point on. It's too late for "shoulda' done's". Thanks
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Martian
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# Posted: 18 Mar 2011 08:29pm - Edited by: Martian
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For added protection, you probably want to cover the foam in the area over the stove using a bright finished metal.. That should protect it from getting hot and gassing noxious fumes. At least, that's how I'd handle your situation.
Tom
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 19 Mar 2011 08:15pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: SquidLips I am starting work on a 10x12 cabin in the woods and want to add a small woodstove. How do I run the stovepipe through the roof without toasting the roof?
Check codes. Do you have a ceiling? Or is it vaulted? You have a 12X12 chimney box, its insulated and this is where the special pipe needs to start at the ceiling and then upward. This pipe is spendy and comes in 4 foot sections. Out through the roof, you need the roof jack (flashing) and it can vary for your pipe and roof pitch. Its someone flexible. The pipe need to extend 2 feet higher than the highest point on the roof, or be more than 10 feet away from the roof at the pipes highest point minimum. In other words, if your pipe comes out near the peak, you go up 2 feet past the peak. If its lower on the roof, you go up till the pipe is 10 feet away from the roof or 2 feet over, which ever comes first. But you can certainly go higher, that is just minimum. I'm hiring a pro to do mine, headed over in April. I have the hearth already in place, stone work on the wall behind it, stove there, just need pipe put in. I want it all up to code and done in a way where the snow wont slide and shear of the pipe. He is a local and knows this stuff well. He is going to build be a shield so my stove get be close to the wall. The shield must be attatched to the stove to be code. Not just a shield setting on the hearth.
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bcheper2buyfurn ace
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# Posted: 22 Dec 2011 02:15pm
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"Ceiling is metal to 6" cement (not concrete)" cement is a ingredient in concrete.
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