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razmichael
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 09:05am
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Based on a recent thread around an air framing gun and compressor, I thought it might be interesting to have a thread to discuss favorite (and perhaps least favorite) tools we have purchased or used, especially for our cabin building. I will suggest we leave generators out of this as there have been numerous threads based around "what is the best generator". The selection of tools can be based on many factors: Previous experience with a brand, power available (on-off grid, generator), current stuff you own (for example if you already have a compressor then compressor based tools may be you preference), where and how you intend to use it, budget, etc etc. I'm fairly sure we all have some favorite tools as well as some that proved to be duds. Building our cabin was a great opportunity/excuse to pick up those bits and pieces that, otherwise, might have been hard to justify! To start here are my favorites:
Ryobi Cordless Tools: I own just about every type of Ryobi 18V cordless tool that exists - and in many cases two of them so I can keep a set at the cabin. This started as a Ryobi drill gift from my brother many many years ago and I have stuck with ever since. I don't claim that they are the best cordless tools on the market but what has sold me on them is that through the years as the products improve and the batteries get better, Ryobi has maintained full backwards compatibility. I can use my original drill with the latest battery and it performs better than it did on the day I first used it. I can use the old battery from that drill in the latest product and it runs it (albeit less power and not for long). So far I have not had any on my Ryobi cordless tools break! Down side to this is that it is harder to justify buying a newer model? The only negative with the Ryobi stuff is the high cost of the batteries and they do have a limited life, especially if you do not care for them. I suspect this is, however, similar for all the cordless brands?
Sticking with the Ryobi lineup - I recently picked up their new cordless 18GA 2" brad nailer P320 - it is amazing! I have not put enough nails through it to comment on long term reliability but it works really well! They claim over 700 nails on one battery charge but I cannot verify that. It is quiet, powerful and really easy to just grab it, move around and put in nails, as well as being maintenance free. It will get a real workout this spring when I start adding in the T&G interior walls in the cabin.
Ryobi Nailer
Paslode CF325 Cordless Framing Gun. I did not have a compressor and wanted the flexibility and portability of the Paslode for my cabin building. I've used mine to build the cabin but also doing a toboggan ramp, tree house and various other projects where I would not have wanted to drag out a compressor (yes I could have used a hammer and nail but where is the fun in that). Downside? Not cheap and you have the added cost of needing gas cylinders (although by keeping an eye out for sales this has not really been much of an issue - they are not that costly). It requires regular maintenance, is fairly heavy (so tiring after a lot of use) and can be a bit difficult to adjust the depth of drive.
Paslod CF325
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tverga
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 12:16pm
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My favorites are a good quality 22-26oz framing hammer, 18 oz finish hammer and good quality tool belt/nail belt.
No batteries, cheap, reliable, durable, easy to use and always ready to work. (sounds like me...)
Nothing like driving out the the cabin and not get anything done because the genset won't start or you are missing a cartridge.
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ATB
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 12:23pm
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Quoting: tverga My favorites are a good quality 22-26oz framing hammer, 18 oz finish hammer
When I started work I went out and bought a "real" hammer amazing how well they work versus the dinky thing in our junk drawer. I was driving nails into the framing with 2 hits!
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bobrok
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 12:23pm
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Quoting: tverga Nothing like driving out the the cabin and not get anything done because the genset won't start or you are missing a cartridge.
Man, were you reading my mind when you posted this?
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hueyjazz
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 12:34pm
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Ryobi tools were high on my list due to price and availability until I had to deal with their customer service. Never have I ever dealt with an organization that know less about customer service than they do. When the batteries die on my Ryobi tool they will get gifted. I've already started to switch to Dewalt.
One of my favorite tools is my 36" Fisker wood splitting axe. This thing is light and usaully yields split wood with one chop with less effort than anything else I've ever used.
Next on the list is a recipocating saw. The rehabbers friend and the start of many a new window and door.
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Dillio187
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 01:24pm
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my Honda EU1000i and my Stihl 038. I wish I could get my 024 to idle like that 038....
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razmichael
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 01:37pm
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Quoting: Dillio187 my Stihl 038
I would have included that in my list but had it stolen a couple of years ago - what a great chain saw!
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skootamattaschmidty
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 02:05pm - Edited by: skootamattaschmidty
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When I did my renovation at the back of my cabin I bought an inexpensive portable table saw from Mastercraft (Canadian Tire brand). I did not want to break the bank on one because I was leaving it up there so if it got stolen, not a huge deal. Now it certainly does not compare to my nice Rigid floor model I have at home but I tell you it was invaluable. I used it for all my cutting and ripping of barn board and my interior pine siding as well as my flooring, including my angle cuts. Worked off my Honda generator easily. That was almost five years ago and I still have it up there and still use it for my many projects.
Another handy tool that I could not have gotten along without was my scribe. I scribed fit the barn board and the trim to get a tight fit against the logs that make up the rest of my cabin.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 02:22pm
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I've now used my Prazi beam saw enough to give it a review. It's a chainsaw attachment that bolts to a Skilsaw, giving you about 12 inches of cutoff depth.
Good idea, but somewhat limited. The accuracy of the square of the cut depends on the sole of the Skilsaw and how square the bar stays to it. In my experience it was easy to screw up the square, so it needed adjustment. Not a big problem.
But what's really odd about this setup is that it just never really ran smoothly like a chainsaw or Skilsaw alone. It seemed to be making grinding noises, so I checked the setup but it was correct.
The chain speed is a lot slower than a chainsaw so it cuts very slowly and tends to grab if you push too hard.
Another thing was that the chain tension varied a lot for unexplainable reasons. It loosened as expected when new, but after that it would tighten and loosen by itself with no rhyme or reason. You'd expect it to loosen when hot, but no, not always. Strange.
Overall though a well designed attachment and capable of accurate if not precise cuts on large beams.
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Malamute
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 03:16pm
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I love my Stihl 036, its my favorite tool by far. Its even started (if it took more pulls) after being in storage for a year or more several times. Never used sta-bil or put fresh gas in it first.
I have a Bostich angle head finish nailer, the gun is pretty good, but the nail magazine is plastic and is horrible. I bought a new one thinking mine was defective, and it was just as bad. The middle part of the magazine pinches inward and hangs up the nails, especially when its colder. I've sanded and filed it out to try to open it up to get it to feed correctly, to no avail. I've called Bostich several times and they see no problem, basically saying I must be imagining it since nobody had ever complained before. I've used the same model gun with the steel magazine and it worked perfectly. I load more nails in it, but only let one stick at a time go ahead of the follower, otherwise I get a lot of empty shots that didn't let nails feed under the ram.
I don't hand frame any longer, and have gone to Estwing hammers for everything now. I've gotten the claw one of their longer handed framers under 6" ring shank nails, laid back and kicked the handle as hard as I could several times to pull the nails, no problem whatsoever. I don't know if you can hurt one of those hammers.
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rayyy
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 04:05pm
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I just got the Ryobi 18 volt one pluss combo kit with the circ.saw,drill,2 lithium batteries with charger for $79.00.You cant beat that.I have built everything for the last 10 years with nothing but battery powered power tools.I have alway's said that I wished they'd invented these things 40 years ago!You know you wear them out and just trash'em and go buy a new set.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 04:36pm
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Ryobi tools are not too bad. I have many of the 18 volt One+ series. One criticism on the circular saw though. The green version is better than the blue version. The green one has a much better main bearing and bearing housing. I hit a nail with my blue one. The blade survived but the bearing housing cracked and cause wobble. The show is also too flimsy but if you are kind, put it down gently it well last.
I used the Ryobi circular saw, recipro saw, a couple drill/drivers, angle drill, jig saw, for just about everything when I built our cabin, shed, barn and for lots of stuff around home. I have other 120 VAC saws that get used for larger work or work that must be more precise.
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silverwaterlady
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 05:08pm
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Duct tape.  
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razmichael
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 05:16pm
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Quoting: silverwaterlady Duct tape.
camouflage duct tape!
Quoting: MtnDon I used the Ryobi circular saw, recipro saw, a couple drill/drivers, angle drill, jig saw, for just about everything when I built our cabin, shed, barn and for lots of stuff around home
You have to try the brad nailer! I was amazed at how well it works!
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Gregjman
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 05:26pm
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Bosch 18v lithium 1/4" impact driver. I get free wood screws from work.
Extendable fiskers pruner has been very handy as well.
The true workhorse has been my 250$ 1983 honda atc 185. I've been very surprised by this machine. Eventually I'll upgrade to an atv.
Love my brain too, for the most part it's been upgradable. Hope it never gets obsolete, I use it for Most of my projects...
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Borrego
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 05:54pm
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Never tried Ryobi, always used the Makita tool sets, used to buy em for my crew, probably have had 10 sets or more counting all the add on tools you can get...never a single problem and powerful, batteries charge up quick (20 min). My fave out of those was the cordless Jig Saw...hands down the best jig saw I ever used and my carpenters agreed....expensive, though at almost $300!
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 06:30pm
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Makita are better than Ryobi , cost more too. If I was earning a living with the tools I'd use Makita. My 7 1/4 Makita is a left over from when I made a living from wood. Ditto my Makita planer, belt sander, corded jigsaw, orbital sander and big router.
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adakseabee
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 08:19pm
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At my off the grid cabin I use a set of Milwaukee 28 volt power tools, a Johnson speed square, a combination square, a framing square (yes, I like things to be square ... and level), 2 foot and 4 foot levels, a sliding bevel, a 6 foot folding carpenters rule, a 25 foot tape measure, some chisels, hammers, planes, chalk line, pencils, a Dietzgen antique Dumpy level and an expanding Philadelphia rod. I don't want to begin telling you what I have at home; it's a looonnng list, including 3 corded and one 18 volt Makita power tools.
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 08:31pm
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What is an "expanding Philadelphia rod"? Goggle doesn't even help on that.
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neb
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 09:10pm
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MtnDon/expanding Philadelphia rod
A Philadelphia rod is a tool used in surveying. The rod is used in leveling procedures to determine elevations. It is read using a level.
A Philadelphia Level Rod consists of two sliding sections graduated in hundredths of a foot. On the front of the rod the graduation increasing from zero at the bottom. On the back of the rod the graduation decrease from 13.09 ft at the bottom to 7 ft. The division of the device in two sliding sections are devised for ease of support. Readings of 7 ft or less, and up to 13 ft can be measured. It has a rear section that slides on the front section. The rod must be fully extended, when higher measurements are needed to avoid reading errors. Distances of up to 250' may be read. [1]
The rod may be equipped with a target to increase the readable range of the rod. When the target is equipped with a Vernier scale measurements to the thousands of a foot are possible. For readings less than 7 ft the target is attached on the bottom section of the rod and adjust by signals from level operator until the target is inline with the level's horizontal cross hair. For readings greater than 7 ft the target is attached to top section of the rod and the top section is raised/lowered until it the target intersects with the cross hair of the level. The rod is then locked and the zero of Vernier scale on the back of the rod will be aligned with the target's height.[2]
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adakseabee
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 09:11pm
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Sorry, I should have said "telescoping" Philadelphia level rod that expands from seven to feet to thirteen feet in length. It is a surveying instrument usually made of hard maple that on the front face has a scale in black against a white face that allows a surveyor observing it though a level telescope to read in feet and inches to .01 inch accuracy the height of eye at the telescope relative to the point on which the rod is placed. In a general sense it is a very accurate ruler held vertically that can be read through the optics of the telescope level at fairly long distances up to a few hundred feet. There are other types of level rods that differ from a Philadelphia rod in length, type of scale, and method of extension. I use mine to assure level construction of structures and proper pitch of drainage pipe.
I don't have a photo of my Philadelphia rod but I have included a photo of my Dumpy level I use with it.
BTW, when I was in the Navy's Seabees, my job was as both a surveyor and a draftsman.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 09:28pm
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Porter Cable stow away table saw. Sawzall, with metal bits (to cut nails) Framing nailer, finish nailer, my Skil mag case worm drive saw. Palm nailer for the metal hangers. Also a "goon spoon" or a little tool used to pull nails out. And a long level, 4 footer, but 6 footer is the hot ticket. This makes sure you walls are plumb and level. Chalk line too.
Those are the most important tool I used at the cabin, have loads more, but those to me were the most important.
Also a large sledge hammer for setting tongue and grooved playwood together for those collecting info for a cabin build. And glue the wood in addition to nailing it. No squeaks.
I am a automotive technician by trade, working at the same Toyota dealer for 25 yrs now. My tool collection for work is staggering to say the least, 35 yrs of buying tool. But these are automotive tools.
The toolbox alone is a staggering $16,100. Snap-On Epic series, 60" cabinet with the stainless "power top", with work center (hutch) and the overhead storage locker. Its 60" wide, 30" deep and 9 feet tall.
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Smawgunner
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 09:38pm
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My dewalt framing nailer! I don't know how I lived without it.
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lawnjocky
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 10:56pm
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I like tools. I have pounded enough nails for a few lifetimes so now I use nail guns for everything, they just make life easier. Palm nailers save your fingers when setting joist hangers.
As far as power tools go I like the Skil model 77 saw. I use Milwaukee 110v drill motors, Makita for cordless. Most of my routers are Porta Cable. Jig saw is a Bosch. I have a couple of chop saws, one Makita and the other a Hitatchi, both monster 15" blades. Milwaukee sawsall. Most of my sanders are Makita. Grinders are Porta Cable and Hitatchi. Chain saws are Stihl. Granberg Alaskan mill. Arch welders are Lincoln and the gas rig is Victor. Shop table saw is a Jet Proshop 10. I have a couple of junk jobsite table saws which I won't name. I can't remember who made my drill press. My verticle band saw is some Chinese thing. The horizonal is a Harbor Frieght special so is my metal cutting chop saw. The sandblaster is Harbor Freight (save your money). Planner is a Ridgid. Hand power planner is a Makita. Electric jack hammer is a Makita
Hand wood working tools come from various sources. I splurge on chisiles which I buy at a Japanese wood working store. The same for hand saws, adze and sharpening stone. My axe is a Wetterling. I tend to buy clamps from Rockler or Jorgenson. A lot of specialty jigs from Rockler. My slick is from Baileys. One draw knife is German and the other is older than dirt. My planes are all older working man's planes, none of those foo foo pricy ones from the wood working stores.
As far as wrenches, sockets, etc I usually buy Craftsman, a good price/quality tool. I use impact wrench and ratchets for both mechanical and construction, they really speed thing up. I use 4 in 1 screw drivers a lot. I also buy screw driver bits for my brace from Jamestown Supply. That is the way to go for big screws. Speaking of screws I use tapered fuller counterbores for drilling, also from Jamestown.
I only buy carbide blades and router bits, anything else is a waste of time and money.
I stay away from "jr handiman" type tools because they just don't hold up. Most of my tools I have had for decades. I am constantly buying new stuff when needed. My thinking on buying or renting is generally if you are going to use it more than three times buy it.
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neb
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# Posted: 10 Jan 2014 11:12pm
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Not much on tools but have a few electric tools (skill saw, drill and sander) but have hand tools doing it the old fashion way. When I biult the cabin I had no power so everything was done by hand. I did use a chain saw but everything else was hand work. I biult my own own in town 35 years ago and bought a table saw then and sold it after I was done. The home was all hand nailed and my body was wore out when I was done. LOL
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mjmmessina
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# Posted: 11 Jan 2014 10:05pm
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I'd pick my Paslode Cordless Impulse Framing and Finish nailers!
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TheWildMan
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2014 10:46am
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top tools would be my auger brace, antique with two direction settings, modified with an adaptor to take modern drill bits, so it takes screw driver heads (with magnet) and drill bits/spoon bits.
chisels hammer, hand saws, buck saw, ax, etc.
my Pulaski I used for turning soil in the field (hard work methods since I couldn't afford better), removing stumps, rough use as an adze on aspen logs for rough outdoor structures.
the wheel hoe I got this summer, bought a couple old wheel plows (push forward to turn soil, no motor and no horse, the Victorian era answer to a rototiller) been fixing and rebuilding them to make turning soil faster so I can grow more crops.
and my chainsaw, jonsered 2152, 52cc engine, 18" bar, I cut 100s of cords of wood, logs, fencing, furniture out of logs, log outbuildings, felled trees up to 36" with it (logger trained in bore cutting). rough cut boards and plants with a youkon mill. most people I talk to laugh when they hear I use a little saw like this but its skill+fuel efficiency, not raw power that get r gone.
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trollbridge
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2014 11:25am
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Quoting: silverwaterlady Duct tape.
 I appreciated that one, silverwaterlady! LOL
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lawnjocky
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2014 02:18pm
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Wildman, where did you get the adaptor for your brace? I have been using my brace with screwdriver bits from Jamestown Supply but what you have sounds much better.
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Rick004
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2014 09:28pm
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Hey Razmichael !! Great thread !! Getting back to Ryobi , I think they're fantastic for the price !! Another thing I like about them is they are comfortable to use ! My all time favourite tool is a craftsman 3/8 ratchet that my grandfather gave me !! He was a millwright and set up a lot of the machinery in the factories in smiths falls ontario !
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