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optimistic
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2013 05:19pm
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Hey,
My 144sqft cabin is really coming along. Finished installing the oak floors, sanded, and two poly coats. Loft has been built.
I owe everyone some photos.. Coming soon!
Even though I have so much to do - I want to start preparing and drying firewood for winter as I heard it could take about to 6 months.
I have a lot of logs that my excavator cut for me. They are already cleared of limbs. I have a small 14" gas chainsaw (and chaps and a hat with goggles... hhh gonna look silly).
This is my plan (never done this before so please advise):
Cut the logs I have into smaller sections - that will fit length wise into my tiny wood stove, then split them with an axe, store them under a roof I will build for them. I read a lot about the different ways to stack and would love to hear what some think...
Questions -
1. anyone here use a timberjack? Seems like a great tool to help with slicing the wood into smaller pieces. Any other ways to do this?
2. should I dry the sliced logs and then chop them into smaller pieces or should I chop them before starting to dry them... seems like I should chop them first as this will allow them to dry faster?
3. What should be my strategy as to managing this firewood - how much should I make?
Also, if people can share their system for firewood (when they start cutting, how they store, the whole nine yards...)
Thanks!!!!
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VTweekender
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2013 05:43pm
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What kind of wood is it ?
It will dry best if it is cut and slit....stacked so air can filter through is best..
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PA_Bound
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2013 05:51pm
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I prefer to cut and stack firewood in the spring, then split late fall or even the following Spring (>6-month minimum).
I cut firewood to length, then let the short pieces dry intact. Wood is much easier to split when it's dry. Ideally get the drying wood off the ground a bit, and find some way to cover it that the wood will stay (relatively) dry from rain/snow, and that allows air to flow through (lean-to, woodshed or something similar is best).
How much to cut and split is relative to how much you plan to use the cabin. How many days you think you will spend the cabin when it will need to be heated?
Oh, and if you are going to split a bunch of wood, consider renting an hydraulic log splitter. They're worth the wait in gold on larger jobs. If you are just splitting a little bit at time, and ax, splitting maul, wedges and sweat will see you through.
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Aaron29
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2013 06:06pm - Edited by: Aaron29
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What I do is in January or February I find a nice stand of hardwood.Maple and Birch mixed is best.I fall it and put the butt up on the stump.I them cut the big branches from the tree and lean them on the tree.THe idea is the wood is mostly up off the ground.
Then around mid may I go back and cut into 8' lengths and haul it to the camp.Once there I buck it into 2' logs and split about 1/2 of it.Then it gets stacked in the wood shed.I take the east and west wall off the wood shed for the summer.Once October hits the walls go back on and I have 2-3 cords of dry wood.I usually do enough to last 2 winters at a time.
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Truecabin
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2013 06:10pm - Edited by: Truecabin
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Tiny cabin can't burn enough wood to busy a hydraulic splitter, more time fussing than time saved. I'd definitely split first and split smaller so they dry faster you only have half a season to get it dry. barely enough time as it is. Cut your logs square so they stand up when you split them logs that fall over when you are trying to hit them are a pain in the butt. Make all you can what you don't use will be properly seasoned by the following year.
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optimistic
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2013 06:42pm
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Excellent advise people!! Appreciate it!
A few updates. I bought this thing to help me cut it into smaller logs before splitting - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IUPJ9A/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The thing that works in my favor is that those logs have been cut down around September and sat there ever since... So they weren't covered and in snow - but at least I am not cutting it fresh.
PABound - splitting dried wood is for sure easier... That's a good point. Maybe for this time, when I am under time pressure, I will split enough undried wood to last me this season while the rest - I will let dry in logs form (cut to length of course) and then split them next year before the cold season begins.
How should I pick an ax? Would love to buy made in USA if possible. Support USA!!!!
Also, a neat tool for splitting that saves you time and I will build as well:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2d2GTBga6I
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SE Ohio
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2013 07:31pm
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Note in video that a maul is used instead of an axe. I've had better luck with the large mass of a maul to aid splitting. You might try splitting some now with a good maul and see if it splits easy enough. It'll dry faster split. Also, this is sweaty and achy work. Split on a cool day and limit to an hour or two at a time.
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Truecabin
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2013 07:32pm
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cancel the order todays sunday print a pic of it and make that from a log with your chainsaw in 5 minutes. it will be made in usa
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ICC
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2013 08:01pm
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Axes are for felling trees; mauls are for splitting. There are many designs but one with a head like the one below are the best. I like a good fiberglass handle though.
Maybe a steel splitting wedge would be a good idea if the trees are large diameter
You don't need any of those other items. If you are splitting in the same spot all the time a length of large dia log with one end buried a foot or more in the ground makes a good splitting block.
For this year I'd split right now and stack bark side up. For the next wood I fell the trees in fall or early winter and cut to stove length and stack in the round. Age a whole year and then split when nice and dry. OR cut in fall/winter and split when frozen, that's easier than wet non frozen wood.
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optimistic
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2013 08:43pm
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hhh learned something new - I need a maul not an axe. Funny.
I will give that thing a go - if it doesn't perform so well - I will return.
I want it because it seems to be light and I will be cutting my logs in a few different locations on my 16 acre lot (he falled several logs in different areas) also - for under $20. It is worth the shot. Plus it can be used with 2 bys and I intend on taking my miter saw from there soon and keeping a cheap circular saw there.... will come in handy.
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optimistic
Member
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# Posted: 28 Apr 2013 09:26pm
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I'm on a tear..... Just ordered this one: http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-7884-Super-Splitting-36-Inch/dp/B004M3BAQE/ref=sr_1_5?i e=UTF8&qid=1367198774&sr=8-5&keywords=fiskars
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Truecabin
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2013 12:11am
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Quoting: optimistic if it doesn't perform so well - I will return.
It will perform you will just regret how much easier to cancel the order before it shipped. use your car to drag the whole logs to the area wher you will be splitting and stacking. dont cut a muddy log your sawchain will be dull in 3 cuts. the maul ICC showed is better they dont get stuck like the old style with flat sides.
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ICC
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2013 01:35am
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that's why i showed it. not all mauls are equal. i should have explained better but thought the picture was worth a thousand words.  i got mine years ago at a True Value hardware store. the wood just flies apart when struck with it. and yes, dirt is a chain killer. ise use smaller logs on the ground and place the larger ones across them if possible to keep up out of the dirt.
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wakeslayer
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2013 09:43am
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You mentioned a timber jack in the initial post. If you are referring to a cant hook, it will do the work of two men. Make sure you get one like this with the foot on it.
http://www.benmeadows.com/logrite-24-aluminum-cant-hook_s_139538/?gclid=COP8nM6A8LYCF c0WMgodLCIATg&CID=BMPL10&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=139538&ef_id=UNMn0QAAVXezH1Cc:2013042 9134113:s
I used to have a very expensive sold steel maul, handle and head. While it worked ok, it was way too heavy.
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oldgringo
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# Posted: 29 Apr 2013 09:47pm - Edited by: oldgringo
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Steel handles will ring your chimes.
I realize this wood is already down, and you wish to utilize it. FWIW, I manage to meet the needs of my cabin by cutting standing dead oaks of modest size. It is already seasoned, much easier to handle, and I don't split more than maybe 25% of it.
I just use a chunk of whatever I'm cutting under the main stem to keep my chain out of the dirt. Also, while I hate leaving stumps, that first cut at the root collar is pretty tough on chains, so unless it's a stump that really, really has to go, I take a pass.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 30 Apr 2013 08:13pm
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Quoting: optimistic I'm on a tear..... Just ordered this one:
That one will work just fine. Split and stack it, under cover, just the top,. leave the sides open for air movement. Keep bottom row off ground, ie a run of treated boards etc.
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