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rayyy
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# Posted: 27 Jan 2013 07:44am
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It finally happened,the inlet line froze up and,,,ut-oh,no water.I screwed around with it all morning long trying to thaw it out with heat.It wasn't working so I finally pulled the pex tubing out of the tank and thawed it out inside.Must of been just a slug of ice got into it.So I did a little reconstruction on the inlet line.Trial and error(as the old saying goes)
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Owen Kellogg
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# Posted: 28 Jan 2013 06:51am
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Similar problem here. I just broke out my 7-gallon "shower bucket" - fill it up at work and pack it in each evening. I replace the inlet line with a weighted hose and drop it in the bucket. Everything's inside now. Plently of water for a shower, washing hands and dishes for the evening.
It's supposed to get up near the 50's for a few days here this week. I think I'll try my luck with thawing the line then.
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bldginsp
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# Posted: 30 Jan 2013 02:09pm
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Will be putting in a concrete spread footing for my cabin project this spring. When I do, I want to put in the best water pipe riser insulation system I can. The water pipes underground won't freeze, once the pipes are inside the insulation envelope of the building they probably won't freeze so long as I feed the woodstove, but what about where the pipe goes up from the earth and enters the insulated envelope under the floor? Seems like this is the area of vulberability.
Here's one idea I had, maybe it's a bit too much- Take a 3" 90 degree electrical conduit sweep and install it in the earth from the depth of the water pipe (18") up through the footing, or inside the footing, to above the subfloor. Then run a flexible poly pipe through that conduit, and try to set that pipe in the conduit so it is not touching the sides of the conduit- so it is in the centerline of the sweep all along. Then take a can of spray foam insulation and fill the inside of the conduit around the pipe with spray foam. Tape off one end, insert the foam spray tip in the tape, and just keep spraying foam til it comes out the other end.
But, I'm not sure what this accomplishes any more than just insulating the hell out of the water pipe where it comes out of the dirt, and a bit below.
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rayyy
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2013 05:32pm
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Ive got a piece of 1/2 "pex tubing from the pump running down into the tank of water.It is inturn running down through a 2" flex hose and the heat from the cabin and the water tank is allowed down into this cavity.The out side of that is wrapped in fiberglass and plastic.It's like a insulated tunnel from one heated space to the other.
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GomerPile
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# Posted: 9 Feb 2013 07:44pm - Edited by: GomerPile
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Insulate the ground around where the pipe comes up. Install a 4'x4' sheet of 2+ inches rigid foam about 12 inches below the surface. Then cut the rest of the sheet into 12 inch squares. Poke a hole in the squares and run the water pipe thru there squares up to your cabin floor. Make sure that there are no air leaks anywhere....foam in a can works to fix air leaks and glue rigid foam together.
Pile lots of snow over your water pipe to provide additional insulation.
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rayyy
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# Posted: 10 Feb 2013 02:06pm - Edited by: rayyy
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Feb 10,it did it again but inside the wall this time.I guess just running the waterline just inside of the wall cavity was not such a good idea.Even with 5 1/2" of insulation on the back side isn't enough to prevent it from freezing.I must have a pocket where the insulation didn't quite get to 100%.Frustrating!
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