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TomChum
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# Posted: 14 Jan 2011 02:19pm - Edited by: TomChum
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I have had a lot of trouble getting enough heat in my cabin (Logs, 12x16 + loft). I haven't really figured it out yet. I had a small potbelly type (coal?) stove, that got the place really hot but it only burned for one hour. Also added a flue damper, but would use it more if I had a problem with overheating. It was a cool stove, 70 years old but almost un-used, and I paid $500 for it. Then I disassembled it completely and re-sealed everything. It had lots of leakes and NO sealant, and worked much better after that. It had far more capacity than a Cape Cod. Cape Cod was very very appealing, but with this experience I'm glad I didn't buy one.
Then I got a Vermont Castings INTREPID for free on craigslist. This was like a gift from heaven. It holds perhaps twice the wood of the potbelly, but........I have to flog it pretty hard to get the place to 68degrees (when it's 15F outside).
I've been searching out cold air leaks, plugging them (chinked log walls). I have no insulation in the roof, just 1.5"solid doug fir, and the tarpaper and shingles. But I do have R-19 in the floor.
I have a hard time believing I can't get 180sf to 68deg with the INTREPID, as it's rated for ~1100sf. I've been burning douglas fir, which is fairly good quality firewood. It's probably related to window and door leaks, which I will continue to work on.
There are a lot of variables here, not sure what to ask, but will appreciate tips. I'll continue to stop the cold air coming in.... One thing I know for sure is that cabin-folks like to see pictures of woodstoves....
The new stove, Vermont Castings INTREPID (~1980s?)
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Everett Stove Works, No44 (~1940s) - removed, too small.
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larry
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# Posted: 14 Jan 2011 10:16pm - Edited by: larry
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from what i can see your stove has a btu rating of 27,000. taking into consideration the door and windows your stove, although very nice looking, is about half the BTU's you should have. i would also imagine that you have a high ceiling and would guess it is very warm up high.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 14 Jan 2011 11:07pm - Edited by: TomChum
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Quoting: larry btu rating of 27,000
Most people just say "a wood stove will cook you out of there, you'll have to open a window." This I found to be untrue as I said above.... But yes it's cozy in the loft!
I like numbers, thanks for that! How did you decide that I need ~50,000 BTU?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 14 Jan 2011 11:22pm
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TomChum, we had a VC Vigilant that we bought in the late 70's in our first home. That was back in Manitoba, Canada where the winters do tend to get a tad chilly. We heated a 832 sq ft home with it, one floor with a basement. The basement was chilly as the stove was on the main floor. That house only had R-11 insulation in the walls. I think the attic was about R25 or so. That Vigilant kept us cozy all winter even when 30 F below.
So if that stove you have burns a good fire the problem is most likely your building. You're using well seasoned firewood? I am I right in thinking that you live in the cabin full time or is the issue that it takes too long to warm up for a weekend stay?
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soundandfurycabin
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2011 12:37am
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Your logs have a lot of thermal mass. When they're cold, it will take a long time to warm them up. A cabin the same size built with standard stick-framed and insulated walls and ceiling would warm up much faster.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2011 02:21am
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We stayed in in for 8 days when it was 5-30 degrees all week. Kept a fire burning all the time except from ~2AM to ~8AM. After the first 24 hours or so it didn't seem to change much. Was using good seasoned wood.
I suspect you're right about the building. About all I can do is plug the leaks so will be doing that next time.
But still..... it's only 180 sf.....
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2011 10:16am
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That's why I asked about the use pattern. Unfortunately soundandfurycabin is right on the money. A log cabin is probably one of the worst structures for weekend winter use as there is simply too much mass that has to have it's temperature raised. Air leaks and drafts will make it tough to warm it up and keep it warm too.
Have you tried those plastic film inside storm window kits? They do work very well.
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larry
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2011 10:24am - Edited by: larry
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Quoting: TomChum I like numbers, thanks for that! How did you decide that I need ~50,000 BTU?
i looked at the type of stove you have and the sq ft of uninsulated space, did a search of that stove and its ideal use. given the fact that your cold on the coldest days, i figure if you double you BTUs you will be fine. that and the fact i was in the same boat you are. and another factor , you say you have 180 sq ft, but you are heating cubic feet. you also have to take into account you have a high ceiling
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2011 11:26am
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Insulating your ceiling with even R-19 would vastly improve your cabin's ability to retain the heat and reduce or eliminate the need to further beef up the stove burning capacity. Big trade off though,
Doug fir ceiling is visually pleasing.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2011 12:57pm
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Quoting: MtnDon A log cabin is probably one of the worst structures for weekend winter use as there is simply too much mass that has to have it's temperature raised
Point well taken.
Well anyway, we always have long underwear out there and ~62 is a nice temp when you're dressed in layers. It's not that 62deg is a problem. Jusw wondering 'what the heck howcum the stove can't keep up?'
I made a lot of concessions for "the look". I did insulate the floor because it was easy to hide. I could not figure out how to insulate the ceiling under this goal - except for adding 1/2" of wood (about +R.5....) . I thought (and everybody told me) that insulation would not be problem as an airtight stove would 'blow us out of there'. Especially considering the old days, cabins had an open hearth. Well anyway thanks for all the learned points of view!
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 15 Jan 2011 01:30pm
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Before I got the ceiling insulation in our cabin it was very difficult to get it warmed up or to keep warm over night. Now the little VC Aspen is almost too much. (16x30, no loft)
If the roof is screwed dowm metal one way to insulate it would be to remove the metal. Then apply at least 2 inches, 6 would be better, of rigid foam sheet. Then a layer of plywood, 3/8 is okay, 1/2 better). Screw that down to the rafters. Then roofing felt and replace the metal.
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TomChum
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# Posted: 16 Jan 2011 04:36pm - Edited by: TomChum
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No my roof is foolhardy as well ;-) chosen for aesthetics (hand split cedar). I think I'm going to have to chase down all the leaks and just throw firewood at the problem. I have no shortage of firewood, but I do have to go out and gather it... Might have to use a propane catalytic heater in the beginning, to get the logs warm. (2 heaters in a 12x16, who would have imagined?)
Quoting: MtnDon A log cabin is probably one of the worst structures for weekend winter use as there is simply too much mass that has to have it's temperature raised
Dang you! You're telling me I have to start my weekend on THURSDAY? So I now have to leave a day ahead, so the cabin can be warm before she arrives?
...........I am not the kind of person to make up an excuses to go early to the cabin so I'll take this one ............ thankyouthankyouthankyouthankyou
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 16 Jan 2011 05:58pm
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You likely don't have a phone up there. There are remote control devices that will turn on a heater with a telephone command.
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mrmiji
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# Posted: 20 May 2011 11:49pm - Edited by: mrmiji
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I have a Lopi Republic stove I paid $100 and though I'm well aware it's like six times the size I need for a 8 X 12 cabin, I'm contemplating welding up a small grate and lining the sides and back with additional fire bricks.
Thoughts?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 21 May 2011 12:46am
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If you put in more firebrick you will probably have more of a delay in getting heat flowing into the room. At the same time the extra mass will hold heat longer. That may be a good thing. Might be worth a try if you can do it in a reversible manner.
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Mkydude10
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# Posted: 13 Sep 2011 07:46pm
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Dear sir mam I know of one double sided fireplace an he had lots of problems with air draw it smoked . His final solution was to install a piece of stainless steel in the middle. Just an observation. An wish you best of luck.
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Malamute
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# Posted: 13 Sep 2011 11:59pm - Edited by: Malamute
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I'm late to this party.
I have a Blaze King in a 14x18 log cabin. It heats very well, and is easy to keep even heat in. I've come in when it was unheated, made a fire, and within an hour it was entirely comfortable and stayed that way. I mostly use either construction scraps, or mill slabs (pine) for firewood. I lay the wood tightly together in the bottom of the stove, about 2 rows of 2x6's, 3 or 4 deep, or a similar amount of slab pieces, start a fire on top of it, leaving the door ajar and the vent wide open. After about 20 minutes I close the door, a little while later I snap the vent completely closed, and dont mess with it all nite. I generally have good coals all nite, and if I need fire in the morning, (often I dont bother with a fire in the morning if its only in the 30's or 40's during the day, it stays warm most of the day) lay more wood on top tightly and close it up. On the zero to 20 below periods, I throw on a real log round or large split on the regular lay, and another on the coals in the morning and I'm good, once in a while I put wood in in the afternoon, but usually just twice a day at most unless it's 20 below for long. I ran fresh air in from the crawl space, it was eating my air up once in a while.
The thermostat controlled vent makes a "ting" sound when it moves to allow air in or damps down, I hear it now and then, but rarely mess with it after the fire is going well.
I've lived full time in the cabin with this stove for 6 years. I can't say enough good about the stove, it's the simplest to use, lasts the longest and uses the least wood of any stove I've had. I never ever get up in the middle of the night to put wood in, even on 20 below nites, and using wood many would consider junk or kindling for the most part. My cord of full round log scraps has lasted the entire 6 years, I dont need full round or big split pieces very often, especially after figuring out the laying of the smaller wood tightly together in the bottom os the stove. I get a couple trailer loads of mill slabs for free at the mill, and am good for the year of heating.
I've noticed the fire lasts longer when you let the ashes build up to a certain extent. When I clean the ashes out, I dont clean them all out. I wait to clean until the air intake is about covered up and I have to dig a path for the air to make it in. Laying the wood tightly together on the bottom of the stove before lighting it makes a big difference in how long the fire lasts also. Give it a lot of air space, and your wood burns up quickly. Think "poor fire build", with little air space, and its probably going to last longer.
You can just see the corner of the stove. It's a large stove, but I havent needed much of its capacity to keep the cabin warm. Bought it at a yard sale for $300 used.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 17 Sep 2011 01:30am - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
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Quoting: TomChum But still..... it's only 180 sf.....
Tom, I have 236 sq feet and this stove runs me out. I have R19 in the floor, ceiling and walls. Picked this unit up from craiglist also, but it cost me a smidge.
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Nwbeerkat
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# Posted: 10 Nov 2011 07:08pm
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Love the bears.
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dumoss
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# Posted: 11 Nov 2011 06:34pm
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Tomchum i believe insulating your cieling is the only way, have you thougt about 2 0r 3 inch rigid insulation over your exposed doug fir between the log rafters on the inside then covering that with more doug fir so it looks the same as before ?du
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cedarguy
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# Posted: 26 Dec 2011 10:38am
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I see this is an old post but in case anyone reads this I'd like to add: I've been heating with wood for about 15 years. How warm your living space gets depends on the type of wood you are burning. I burn only dry cedar in the spring and fall. It burns fast, hot and cools down nice. No need to open a window. If you load the stove with hard maple, oak or cherry it takes a while to get going but the heat lasts longer. Too much hardwood in the cabin on a night less than -10c will make for a very hot cabin.
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brokeneck
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# Posted: 2 Jan 2012 03:32pm - Edited by: brokeneck
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Like Clay and Feathers -- I also have the Vermont Castings Aspen -- since it's made of cast iron it holds its heat well -- and includes a feature that automatically closes the air intake so it cannot get hot enough to damage the stove. I just bought an Ecofan which moves the warm air around my 10x 20 very nicely and added a rock wall behind the stove. The combination of the cast iron stove - thermal mass of the rocks and air circulation allow me to let the fire burn down to coals and still be warm when we wake up in the morning.
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creeky
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# Posted: 19 Dec 2012 07:40pm
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cedarguy, thanks for the tip. i have birch/maple/oak and was all set to heat myself out. but now I need to find me some dead cedar (and i know just where to look)
i have used cedar in the past, but only to get the "big" fire going.
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