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optimistic
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# Posted: 20 Apr 2012 09:51pm
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I know that some of these questions are a bit silly 
1. I am interested in the Centrex 1000 non electric with pint flush composting toilet. The issues with this system, as I read other posts around here, is when the temp drops under 55... Composting stops. To combat this, I would like to do the following: build an enclose space for it with 'passive house' insulation levels. Because this will basically be a big box - the costs of this super insulation will be relatively low. it will have about R34 in the walls and R64 in the floor and ceiling... Again, this box will be around 5ft wide x 4ft tall x 3ft deep. I will keep a digital thermostat in there to check on it for the first winter and if I see that it gets too cold - I will add a heating element to it. Either i will run some kind of water pipe from the wood stove or I will just have a tiny radiator set on a timer to just give it a little boost. If I can make the box really airtight then at this levels of insulation I should be able to keep it at the right temp. Thoughts?
2. Floor insulation. I know many of you don't bother but I really want to use my cabin in the winter. (I love snow..) My main reason against it is that it seems to be a paint in the a** to do... I will need to have some kind of cover under the floor joists that will withstand rodents trying to dig through. I cannot find any solution that seems easy or inexpensive....
3. Barrel stove. I saw those kits - and I love it! I can get a used barrel for 5$. How are these?
4. Heating water with the wood stove. Anyone tried to do this? http://www.motherearthnews.com/Do-It-Yourself/1976-11-01/Wood-Hot-Water-Heater.aspx
5. Stupid framing question. I am trying to plan my cabin in a way that minimizes cuts. If I use 8ft 2x4's for my outside walls, and have them sit on the edge of the platform, then the plywood sheating will have a lip (the thickness of the plywood) over the size of the joists... (Hopefully I am understandable). I will then need to cut strips of plywood, the same width of the joists, to have it flush... Or should I just not place the walls on the edge but instead have it back by the thickness of the plywood to have it flush with the joists. Does that matter?
6. roof truss. Is king post the easiest type to build? Also, what common ways are there to close the gap under the overhang and between the wall.
7. Water tower. I want to lay horizontally a 55g drum at the highest point inside the cabin - where the rafter join. I will also have another three drums, connected to each other, at ground level outside the cabin. One of these will have a pump in it with a float so when they are filled with water - it will push the water into the indoor drum. Now, if my walls will be 8ft then the drum will probably be around 10-11ft high, so if I install the shower head at about 6ft 5" tall - will that be enough water pressure?
8. rain collection. I only intend on using this water for non drinking use: shower, toilet, bathroom and kitchen sinks. Do I need to filter or sanitize the water somehow? will the water be clean if they are stored in the drums? (no light will be on them and it will be closed so no bugs can go in it)
9. fridge. I'd like to have solar power and generator as backup. Did someone research what is the lowest energy consuming fridge?
Thanks!
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 20 Apr 2012 11:56pm - Edited by: MtnDon
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1. That will help as long as any electrical heating is from the grid.
2. Yes, insulate the floor. It may not be easy, but it is good.
3. Steel barrels burn out. You can slow that down with grates and sand or firebrick. Not too nice to look at though, IMO.
4. What about summer and weather when it's warm enough to not need the wood stove? Solar works. Water coils always run the risk of forming steam under the wrong conditions. Steam can = boom.
5. OSB comes in 4x8, 4x9 and 4x10 sheets. You can build the wall framing and overlap the OSB over the rim joists for a strong wall.
6. Truss? Home built? Why? Normal rafters and ridge board work for most applicatiuons.
Eve to wall is normally enclosed creating a soffit. Some 2x framing plus aneling of some sort usually with venting holes/slots. There are precut choices available as long as you frame to suit.
7. For every foot of "head" you get 0.43 PSI, less frictional losses. Head= vertical distance from top of water level in tank to point of use. 20 PSI is usually considered minimum pressure for satisfactory results.
8. I would filter all water regardless of it's final use. Purification is another matter. Myself, I'd be running any water I use for personal use, including showering through a UV purifier just to be sure I'm not inhaling anything I shouldn't be. Maybe that's just my paranoia, but I've had water borne parasite illnesses before.
9. Google "energy star" or go to energystar.gov and look over the lists they have for efficiency of electric refrigerators and other appliances. They provide average annual usage figures. They may or may not accurately reflect the actual amounts of electricity you or I may use, but the numbers should be more or less proportional across the board, make to make, size to size.
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optimistic
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# Posted: 21 Apr 2012 11:49am
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Great stuff mtndon!
1. floor insulation - any suggests on how to do with and not make a house for rodents?
2. barrel stove - what does that mean they 'burn out'?
3. OSB sizes. I'm not that savvy with building materials. I mainly use lowes and HD online to see what's available. I did not know that OSB comes in those sizes. That is really interesting. They are selling 4x8 1/2" osb for 8$.. I wonder how much more money are those 4x10?
4. Rafters. what are normal rafters? can you offer a design that will be easy to construct?
5. water pressure. Then my setup should work. The drum will be at least 3-4 feet over.
7. Winter. What happens in the cabin when no one is there in terms of freezing? wouldn't the pipes burst or something?
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optimistic
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# Posted: 21 Apr 2012 11:52am
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I just realized that you wrote that it needs 20 psi and not .20 psi....
Damn. Then I will need a pump right. No other way around it.
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Just
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# Posted: 22 Apr 2012 09:16am
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1 cover the entire bottom of cabin with 1\4in hardwere screen .
2 will not last long maybe a year of use.
4 shed roof, a singal sloping roof,, should slope at least 1 ft. in 3 ft.
5 get a sure flow pump and a rain water tank .best under ground.
7 you will have to drain all water systems if you are in a cold climate build it with that in mind .
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Gone2TheCamp
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# Posted: 23 Apr 2012 12:25pm
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Quoting: optimistic 9. fridge. I'd like to have solar power and generator as backup. Did someone research what is the lowest energy consuming fridge?
Check the internet for using a chest freezer as a fridge. They sell a thermal switch that controls the power flow to the freezer by a temperature probe that you put in the freezer compartment... essentially, it turns the power on and off at the temperature you set...
You need to be creative with shelves and baskets but from what I read, it uses around 1/10th of the power that a fridge would use.
I'm brand new so not sure what I'm allowed to post links to (Amazon, etc...) so just Google a bit and you'll find lots of articles on it.
Not sure if that's a possible solution for you or not.
Cheers
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 23 Apr 2012 05:39pm
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1. We installed 3/8" CDX plywood under the joists after the insulation was inserted.
2. The steel gets burnt up; it actually gets thinner as the stove is used over time. A layer of sand in the bottom can help as can a cast iron grate in the bottom.
3. You pay a premium for the extra length, but it's worth it IMO. Check with a real lumber yard.
4. Depends on snow load among other things like the overall span from one side to the other. Std rafters with a ridge board look more complicated than they are. IMO. Shed roof is okay but watch snow loads. Find that out; add in the width and rafter size is easy to calculate.
7. Yep all supplu piping needs to either be sloped and drain to low points with drain valves or the lines can be blown out with compressed air. I use air.
9. The chest freezer conversion does work, bit may be hard to get used to in everyday use. Also takes up more floor space.
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optimistic
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# Posted: 23 Apr 2012 06:15pm
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Gone2thecamp, what an amazing piece of information!!!! I already found some good guides and this will definitely be on my list.
MtnDon
Thanks for the great info. I will post my design later for more beneficial advice.
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