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Brettny
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# Posted: 11 Jan 2025 06:03pm
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I would definitely wrap the siding down below the rim joist. I even did this with my sono tube foundation that I dont plan on skirting. It really helps keep the rain that runs down the siding away from important framing. I put the 8' t1-11 sheet at the bottom so my Z flashing and second smaller piece was at the top and well under the overhang of my roof.
It worked out that all the top of my windows are also at the Z flashing. You can also see that I used upside down T1-11 to cover the bottom of the overhang.
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JD0
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# Posted: 12 Jan 2025 10:43am
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Lots of great information here, I may not respond to everything individually but I appreciate all the input.
ICC, I will look into helical piles and see if that's something feasible. I've assumed they would be too expensive but maybe for a small building it wouldn't be too bad.
I'm thinking about the floor framing now too...I guess in order to cantilever at all, the joists would have to sit on top of the beams vs using joist hangers. In the past I've always used joist hangers but the more I think about it, sitting the joists on top would be preferable anyways - no worries about corrosion or having adequate bearing on the hanger.
I will see if I can adjust my plans to include two beams vs three, you're right, that sounds easier and simpler to have all the blocks near the perimeter if the span will allow it.
You mention doing twin beams will change the requirements for the loft joists. What do you mean by that? With two beams, would the joists now have to support the entire span vs being able to use the interior wall to bear the load? I guess that would make sense, since you would want that weight to have a direct path to the foundation vs over a floor joist.
Regarding inspection/code - absolutely, I agree that generally these things exists for a good reason. My comment wasn't meant to imply that I intend to carelessly disregard code, just recognizing that sometimes sound practices can exist outside code and I have some flexibility.
Regarding the walls, I definitely will have the sheathing go down over the rim joist. Menards does sell 5/8 t1-11 in 4x9 sheets. The manufacturer website states they are "Grade-stamped and span-rated by TPI". I guess that means they are structural but I'm not sure. I think it's a moot point anyway, I'll almost certainly do sheathing underneath the siding. It comes out to about the same cost either way considering the thicker t1-11 is more expensive.
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JD0
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# Posted: 12 Jan 2025 10:47am
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Quoting: Brettny It worked out that all the top of my windows are also at the Z flashing. You can also see that I used upside down T1-11 to cover the bottom of the overhang.
Looks great. Whats the purpose of covering the bottom of the overhang here?
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ICC
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# Posted: 12 Jan 2025 12:52pm - Edited by: ICC
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Quoting: JD0 You mention doing twin beams will change the requirements for the loft joists. What do you mean by that? With two beams, would the joists now have to support the entire span vs being able to use the interior wall to bear the load? I guess that would make sense, since you would want that weight to have a direct path to the foundation vs over a floor joist.
That is pretty much what I meant. I am not an engineer, but if a more or less mid-span wall was inserted under the loft joists I believe that would create a point load on each main floor joist. I think that is where an engineer's expertise enters the planning.
My quick calcs with a triangle calculator make me wonder about the roof pitch combined with the desire for a loft. Using 18 ft as the width and a 6/12 (26.6 degree) pitch the height of the rafter triangle looks to be about 4.5 feet. Roughly.
With 8/12 (33.7 degrees) the height is about 6 feet.
With either it seems that anyone up there is going to be stooped over or crawling unless they are laying down.
Not to mention my main dislike for lofts; it is always warmer/hotter up there than on the main level. But that is just me and my thought about a loft.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 12 Jan 2025 04:09pm
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Quoting: JD0 Looks great. Whats the purpose of covering the bottom of the overhang here?
Keeps mice out and seals things up. I have no blocking at the top of the walls. This does the same thing but wat easier to install.
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JD0
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2025 09:49am
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Quoting: ICC My quick calcs with a triangle calculator make me wonder about the roof pitch combined with the desire for a loft.
Yeah, actually it's only around 5 ft with an 8/12 pitch once you factor the width of the rafters and floor joists. I am with you on the general discomfort of lofts. In the first place I built I had designed the main sleeping area as a loft, and it was much smaller and only gave me maybe 3 or 3.5 feet of headroom up there. Many nights in the summer the heat was pretty miserable, but with the window open and a fan running it was tolerable. I would never build a place with the intention of always sleeping in a loft unless I really had to, and with more attention to air circulation and ventilation.
My intentions here aren't to make it a primary sleeping spot, just some extra space to have guests, and only if it's preferable to sleeping in the living room. Even if it ends up being mostly storage and seldom used to sleep in, it's a pretty minimal investment for the extra space. I guess I just can't think of a better way to use the space since I don't really care for the entire cabin to be open. It would be great to have a 12/12 pitch and make it more liveable up there, but...heights aren't my thing and I don't know if I see myself willingly working on a roof that steep.
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JD0
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2025 09:49am
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Quoting: Brettny Keeps mice out and seals things up. I have no blocking at the top of the walls. This does the same thing but wat easier to install.
Ah, nice. Yeah, that does seem much easier than blocking.
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Grizzlyman
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# Posted: 13 Jan 2025 03:37pm - Edited by: Grizzlyman
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Quoting: JD0 It would be great to have a 12/12 pitch and make it more liveable up there, but...heights aren't my thing and I don't know if I see myself willingly working on a roof that steep.
I hear you there. It’s definitely a different ballgame when you have to ACTUALLY go up there. But. Keep in mind 12/12 is really no different than 8/12- you ain’t walking up there either way. If it were me and I was considering 8/12 I would just 12/12. Plus the snowload difference is significant- especially in the mountains- and especially when you’re not around to check in on the place. Adds a lot of peace of mind when you’re not there and headroom to the loft. Just my .02
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JD0
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# Posted: 14 Jan 2025 04:59pm
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You've got a point...I was thinking it would be easier to move around on an 8/12 (with a harness, of course), but you're probably right...either way it's going to be a slow process of repositioning ladders and equipment and not much freely walking around. I'll give that some thought and come up with a better plan
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