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Small Cabin Forum / General Forum / Honda V-twin engines
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paulz
Member
# Posted: 7 Apr 2022 02:30pm
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Well my new to me UTV has been doing great, the CCC (cheap Chinese carb) works flawlessly. Really bombs up my driveway, not even on full throttle. So well in fact I decided to treat it to a quick paint job today. Scuffed and washed the flaking paint off and dug out 3 cans of spray paint. 5 minuted later, done. My first camo job, not the best but better than that bright orange.
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20220407_092355.jpg
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20220407_110405.jpg


jsahara24
Member
# Posted: 8 Apr 2022 07:48am
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Looks good to me....Last rattle can paint job I did, I made up some leaf templates out of cardboard....turned out decent..

toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 8 Apr 2022 08:14am
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I have the Kawasaki Mule 610 at my property, I have 40 acres, this is a must have, makes little chores around the property quick and easy. Toss in needed tools, head out, fix fence, drop beetle kills, skids the logs in, haul water.... endless.

Paul, that actually looks great, huge improvement and pefect "woodland" cammo design. Now if you get real good, do the digital cammo.
Heck, too good, you might not find it. I see the rollbar. Does it have a roof? If not, add one, keeps sun off you, rain and also helps protect the seat etc from sun rain. A chunk of plexiglass down the front too, keeps rain off knees.
Mine came with roof (special edition model) and I had them add the windshield.
2015 XC SE Mule 610
2015 XC SE Mule 610


paulz
Member
# Posted: 8 Apr 2022 11:08am - Edited by: paulz
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Dang TMT, you wear a tux when you take that out? Very nice.

Somebody before me put this old sign on my roof. A windscreen would be nice in winter, I probably have a piece of Plexiglas around here somewhere. Especially since I have put my previous yard truck into temporary retirement. It runs great but the UTV is a smoother ride and no door to climb in and out of. Plus it's kind of a rare truck, 1980 was the only year of a Datsun badged 4x4, next year were Nissans. Probably collectible to someone.
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20220408_0752221.j.jpg
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1224171037_1.jpg


gcrank1
Member
# Posted: 8 Apr 2022 12:00pm
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Ha! Your utv is camo'ed from above disguised as a sign.

paulz
Member
# Posted: 9 Apr 2022 11:33am
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Hopefully not a stolen sign.

I still have one issue with this thing. It has a centrifugal clutch, and CV trans I think. The whole thing is encapsulated in a dirt free cover, no easy way to get at it. When first started, the clutch is free. As you put it in gear and give it gas, it engages and off you go. But when you stop, even at a low idle, the clutch does not disengage, can't shift into neutral, and it creeps along. Have to turn the engine off. Then it disengages. I can still drive it fine, I just have to shut it off every time I stop. I'm guessing that the springs that disengage the clutch are weak or broken.

darz5150
Member
# Posted: 9 Apr 2022 12:16pm - Edited by: darz5150
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The clutch on my log dawg is like that.
I am able to shoot wd 40 in it a couple times per year. It's not enclosed, but not super easy to get to. So I use the straw extension on the can.
I think mine collects the dust and dirt in it.
👍 On the camo paint job.

gcrank1
Member
# Posted: 9 Apr 2022 12:20pm - Edited by: gcrank1
Reply 


Its a golf cart drive unit, common issue, there are adjustments, look at a golf cart forum for ideas.
Iirc the belt condition and tension is critical.

paulz
Member
# Posted: 9 Apr 2022 06:52pm
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Quoting: darz5150
I am able to shoot wd 40 in it a couple times per year.


I've thought about that. It does have an air inlet tube (I think, upper left). The frame is in the way of removing the big cover. Last thing I want though is slippage. Were you able to spray right at the clutch? I could grab a hole saw and cut a hole...
20220409_154414.jpg
20220409_154414.jpg


toyota_mdt_tech
Member
# Posted: 9 Apr 2022 08:56pm
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Paulz, this is a snowmobile set up, its basically 2 pulleys with a large V belt, semi loose. As you throttle it up, the front pulley squeezes in on the belt, it climbs up from the bottom of the pulley groove while the driven pulley is narrow and belt is on the outer portion, so its like a small drive wheel up front, large in the rear. As the front spins faster, it closes tighter and the rear pulley spins faster, it opens up and the belt climbs down into that groove, so the front pulley becomes larger, rear smaller and this is how you get your CVT gearing. Yes, it is a dry set up. Its a rubber belt, you dont want petroleum on the rubber. Can you set your idle lower. It may seem low enough, tr to see if it can be lowered more. Many people tamper with what they think it the base idle screw and are adjusting the governor. I just fixed a buddys John Deere Gator, same issue, tough to change gears when stopped. Fixed gov adjustment and set base idle. We did toss on a new belt too, had 500 hours on it, was pretty cracked.
All sweet now.

A good demo, but your belt is rubber, the steel belts are automotive versions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHWqlfDZnmQ

darz5150
Member
# Posted: 9 Apr 2022 09:46pm
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This is what I have. I've seen the same set up on snow machines and gas golf carts. When I put the wd on. I try to get it in between the outer hub and the throw out mechanism. I have gotten some dripping where the belt rides. Not gotten enough on the belt to mess it up. It is a new belt. But the clutch is over 40 years old. As TMT said adjusting the idle low enough might/ should prevent the grinding when switching from forward/neutral/ reverse. I know I need to rebuild or replace the carb. So sometimes I have to play with the manual choke to idle down without grinding the trans.
I know part of my deal is that I drive thru water, mud, and mostly dusty gritty trails.
I have used the wd method on go karts mini bikes etc. But those have chain drives, so over spray doesn't make a difference. As gcrank said. There may be an adjustment in the clutch itself. But pulling the clutch off might be a bitch in tight spaces. If you can get access to try the wd. You have nothing to lose if it doesn't work.
The Log Dawg has a 1000 lb capacity. Passenger and load. I recently posted a pic of a full load of wood in the bed, plus a decent load pulling a trailer. Clutch worked fine with no issues, over the river and thru the woods so to speak. Lol.
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IMG_20220409_1952160.jpg
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IMG_20220409_1950032.jpg
Loaded
Loaded


gcrank1
Member
# Posted: 10 Apr 2022 09:23am
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To clarify maybe a bit...any 'clutch adjustment' Im suggesting is in the actuating linkage, all external.
But I do agree that the idle rpms and mixture needs to be done first, it is the easiest and may mostly solve it.
It should sit there without any drag when you stop and foot off throttle.

paulz
Member
# Posted: 10 Apr 2022 01:31pm
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I had to leave for the city early this morning but before I did... I fired it up in gear with the parking brake on, gave the throttle a blip to engage the clutch, then went around and turned the idle speed screw (yes, I know the difference..) down some, which did nothing as the governor lever held it where it was. But by simultaneously pushing the throttle lever closed by hand and adjusting the speed screw as low as it would run, the clutch did disengage on it's own. Next week I will adjust the governor to let it idle down more and see if it will stay running at a speed low enough to disengage the clutch. So there is hope! I was surprised it maintained an idle that low, almost like a hit and miss engine, but it seemed to.

More to follow.. thanks guys!

paulz
Member
# Posted: 12 Apr 2022 07:17pm - Edited by: paulz
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Back at the ranch... I straightened the governor to carb linkage rod to allow the throttle plate to close further. Didn't help, as regardless of where it is, as the engine slows way down the governor kicks it back up. I'm not aware of a way to remedy this.

When I let of the gas though, it does momentarily slow way down, before the governor kicks it back up, and I can shift it into neutral at that instant. Not of much use though unless I'm super quick on the timing.

darz5150
Member
# Posted: 12 Apr 2022 11:58pm
Reply 


You'll get it figured out.
Screenshot_20220404.png
Screenshot_20220404.png


gcrank1
Member
# Posted: 13 Apr 2022 10:00am
Reply 


Just takin a stab....
If the idle is so low that the gov is kicking the rpms up then idle is as low as it can go and should be up a smidge.
At that point the belt tension/grad in the pulleys has to allow slip enough to sit there without the brake on (or sometime that is gonna bite you!)

paulz
Member
# Posted: 13 Apr 2022 10:34am
Reply 


Not really familiar with governors, had a look at a photo, another centrifugal dingus apparently, inside the crank case. I could bypass it with a cable straight to the carb, would take some fiddling around with brackets. But yeah, even idling at it's 'normal' rpm it takes a fair blip of the throttle to get the clutch to engage, so it seems odd it would have to be that much lower to disengage. I still think something is sticking or whatnot in there.

Not really a big issue for me though. I only drive it from the cabin to the shop, about 600' (200 as the crow flies but a steep hill with a switchback) and have enough area at both to turn around without backing up, so it just stays in drive.

I still may take a hole saw and cut a big hole in that cover opposite the clutch to have a look.

gcrank1
Member
# Posted: 13 Apr 2022 10:56am
Reply 


A 'fair blip' or, in my case, I try to slowly raise the rpm's to get engagement and be ready to Go! It is most def Not linear or progressive in the way I expected. A friend told me a new belt would probably help that.....I just went for adjustment. Iirc that is tighter than most belt drive stuff I have messed with.
Any golf course near you? Maybe go talk to whomever works on their gas carts.

darz5150
Member
# Posted: 13 Apr 2022 11:00am
Reply 


Quoting: paulz
I still may take a hole saw and cut a big hole in that cover opposite the clutch to have a look.

Really couldn't hurt. Still sounds similar to the problem I was having. I know when it's time to lube mine, when I go to take off, the clutch grabs quickly, instead of smoothly. When in loose gravel, it will peal out a little bit.

paulz
Member
# Posted: 15 Apr 2022 12:57pm - Edited by: paulz
Reply 


Fixed! I cut a flap in the cover, lubed the shaft and the centrifugal linkages. Also was able to stretch a spring in the complicated governor/throttle linkage and get the idle down a bit more. Thanks guys!

Took a video, you can see the pulley move out and suddenly snap all the way when revs get low enough. Just going to bend the flap back and tape it over so I can lube again if needed.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/tumb9orwmUE?&ab_channel=DanielBrewer

gcrank1
Member
# Posted: 15 Apr 2022 01:10pm
Reply 


Looks like you have given me another project.....

darz5150
Member
# Posted: 15 Apr 2022 01:40pm
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