|
| Author |
Message |
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 08:16am
Reply
First and foremost I have to say this is one of the most rewarding activities i've ever done! While it can be back aching work, it's so worth it afterwards to see a log turn into such a beautiful beam!
I bought the Timber Tuff TMW-56 (weird it's not listed on their own website) from Grainger as i get a discount there and it was around $23 for me with free shipping. For the saw i used my Echo Timber Wolf CS-590 as it has a 24" bar on it.
First complaint: Box Nails...the most useless nails i've ever purchased!! I picked up some 3" ones at HD on my way up north to hold my guide board. These nails are so soft I'm pretty sure i could bend them just by looking at them. Even more frustrating is how easily the head stripped off them. Wether i was using the claw to remove the nail after milling or i was pound the board off the log, it would pop the head right off.
So what's a good nail type to get for securing a guide board down that can handle being repeatedly nailed and removed??
2nd complaint: To all those youtubers out there that reviewed this chainsaw attachment, your crazy when you say you don't need a ripping chain!! While i was able to get 2 beams done, i felt i took more wear and tear than the saw did. Even though i touched up my blade after each tank of gas, it felt way to labor intensive.
I've never bought a ripping chain before, anything specific i should look for?
Not so much a complain but a question. Have you ever had your jug of bar oil thicken up to the point of molasses or caramel? My bar of Stihl oil was so thick i had to squeeze it like a ketchup bottle to get it out and into the saw. Once it was in the saw it seemed to warm up from the engine. It wasn't even that cold out, maybe 3-5 deg F.
So i got 2 beams, a 4x6 and 6x6 both around 8-9ft long. Each cut took around 10mins and about 2 tanks of gas per beam...so about an hour per beam.
One of the big complaints of this mill is the set screws that tighten on the bar come loose or fall out. I never had that issue once. On initial setup i lightly snugged each one down and then went back through a couple times tightening each one a little more. After cutting each side of the beam i would check them again keeping the allen wrench handy in my pocket. The kit does come with the option of drilling your bar to run bolts through it, and i may consider this in the future.
Overall it's a fun little accessory and i can't wait to get some more logs to mill.
IMG_37731.JPG
| 
IMG_37741.JPG
| 
IMG_37801.JPG
| 
IMG_37851.JPG
|
|
|
FishHog
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 08:36am
Reply
yes it it tough work and goes slow. I did a bunch during blackfly season which I wouldn't recommend.
I use long screws for my guide boards. Easy to remove and reuse with a cordless screwdriver.
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 09:16am
Reply
Yes, screws like Fish said. I've milled with chainsaw, bandsaw and circular saw. Chainsaw is by far the most labor intensive but the other options aren't cheap.
|
|
scott100
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 09:44am
Reply
Looks good! Concerning the oil, you should be using winter oil. Should be available at your local saw shop.
|
|
darz5150
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 11:05am
Reply
If you have an old chain laying around. Try sharpening it to a 10° angle.
|
|
Aklogcabin
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 11:35am
Reply
I just got one of these. Now I'm more eager to try it out.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 11:42am
Reply
Quoting: WILL1E So what's a good nail type to get for securing a guide board down that can handle being repeatedly nailed and removed??
Scaffoldng nails have a double head and they are not skinny like a box nail but thicker like a common nail.
|
|
ICC
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 11:44am
Reply
Quoting: WILL1E Have you ever had your jug of bar oil thicken up to the point of molasses or caramel? My bar of Stihl oil was so thick i had to squeeze it like a ketchup bottle to get it out and into the saw. Once it was in the saw it seemed to warm up from the engine. It wasn't even that cold out, maybe 3-5 deg F.
As scott100 said get some winter bar and chain oil. Can be hard to find in some warmer places
|
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 11:57am
Reply
Nice job Will! The best time to be doing anything wood related is now.
As for the bar oil in the cold yes I have had it so thick it didnt oil the bar. That was 5* about mid day. I put a touch of diesel in the bar oil tank and shook the saw a bit. Worked very well and not I dont have to stock another type of bar oil.
Speaking of bar oil you want the type that strings or and dosnt pour like water. So far the only brands I have found that do this was poulan and husqvarna. I stopped buying stihl after they changed the formula and it didnt string off.
|
|
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 12:19pm
Reply
Quoting: FishHog I did a bunch during blackfly season which I wouldn't recommend.
Quoting: paulz Yes, screws like Fish said. I've milled with chainsaw, bandsaw and circular saw. Chainsaw is by far the most labor intensive but the other options aren't cheap.
Quoting: scott100 you should be using winter oil
Quoting: Aklogcabin I just got one of these. Now I'm more eager to try it out.
Quoting: ICC Scaffoldng nails
Quoting: Brettny I put a touch of diesel in the bar oil tank
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 08:48pm - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply
Yo Willie (remeber that from the show called "Alf")
For your ripping chain, get an Oregon 72RD084.
With a 24" bar, you will have 84 drivers, I suspect your gauge is .050
Here is one for your saw at Amazon
How about Duplex nails? Or will is stand in the way of your timber tuff?
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 25 Jan 2021 10:29pm
Reply
Use torx head construction screws, NOT Phillips head drywall screws.
Id probably be sure of my set up then drill the bar for thru-bolts and use locking nuts. At some point the vibes are going to make the set-screws not hold well (the threads wear loose and they will no longer stay tight). When you discover this is when things go wrong, perhaps very wrong, and maybe dangerous.
|
|
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 07:52am
Reply
Quoting: toyota_mdt_tech For your ripping chain, get an Oregon 72RD084. With a 24" bar, you will have 84 drivers, I suspect your gauge is .050
Quoting: gcrank1 When you discover this is when things go wrong, perhaps very wrong, and maybe dangerous. 
IMG_37791.JPG
| 
IMG_37771.JPG
|  | |
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 08:16am - Edited by: toyota_mdt_tech
Reply
I'm sure it is. I suspect you have a 3/8 chain, in fact, I see 3/8 on the bar. It looks like you have the semi chisel chain which is real common. Remove the chain and count your drivers, those are the hooks that ride in the bar, a 24" bar usually have 84 drivers.
And when your not ripping and want to really get after firewood (crosscutting), grab the Oregon 72EXL084G, this is a chisel bit chain, non safety chain (code red) and its a mean unit.
Yours looks like its at the end of its life now. I'm certain its .050 gauge
|
|
Aklogcabin
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 09:16am
Reply
Thanks for the chain info toyota. I'll put blue thread lock on the set screws.
|
|
paulz
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 10:59am - Edited by: paulz
Reply
Quoting: WILL1E I've had my eyes on the Logosol but like you said, $$$.
My bandsaw mill has paid for itself I'm sure. If you plan on doing a lot of your cabin and other structures it will also, especially if lumber prices don't subside.
Another bonus is, depending on your neighbors and pals, you'll be a popular guy, kind of like having a ski boat. I don't make a special effort but whenever mine is set up I end up swapping stuff for milling their logs, or obtaining some of the lumber.
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 11:04am
Reply
If that is the Loctite for periodic disassembly it will help but dont use the 'permanent' (used to be red) or you wont (or WILL have trouble getting it off).
The iffy part will still be that you will get used to it hanging together and stop checking the screws as often then comes the sad day when.......
|
|
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 11:55am
Reply
Quoting: paulz Another bonus is, depending on your neighbors and pals, you'll be a popular guy, kind of like having a ski boat. I don't make a special effort but whenever mine is set up I end up swapping stuff for milling their logs, or obtaining some of the lumber. 
Quoting: gcrank1 If that is the Loctite for periodic disassembly it will help but dont use the 'permanent' (used to be red) or you wont (or WILL have trouble getting it off). The iffy part will still be that you will get used to it hanging together and stop checking the screws as often then comes the sad day when.......
I don't see any reason why not to drill the bar and make it a more permanent/secure setup, even if you don't plan to do it often.
|
|
mj1angier
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 04:38pm
Reply
Yeah, I would buy a new bar and the ripping chain. Then drill and bolt it together and leave as a unit. When ready to make beams just swap out the whole bar unit.
|
|
NorthRick
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 05:31pm
Reply
Quoting: WILL1E First and foremost I have to say this is one of the most rewarding activities i've ever done! While it can be back aching work, it's so worth it afterwards to see a log turn into such a beautiful beam! I bought the Timber Tuff TMW-56 (weird it's not listed on their own website) from Grainger as i get a discount there and it was around $23 for me with free shipping. For the saw i used my Echo Timber Wolf CS-590 as it has a 24" bar on it. First complaint: Box Nails...the most useless nails i've ever purchased!! I picked up some 3" ones at HD on my way up north to hold my guide board. These nails are so soft I'm pretty sure i could bend them just by looking at them. Even more frustrating is how easily the head stripped off them. Wether i was using the claw to remove the nail after milling or i was pound the board off the log, it would pop the head right off. So what's a good nail type to get for securing a guide board down that can handle being repeatedly nailed and removed?? 2nd complaint: To all those youtubers out there that reviewed this chainsaw attachment, your crazy when you say you don't need a ripping chain!! While i was able to get 2 beams done, i felt i took more wear and tear than the saw did. Even though i touched up my blade after each tank of gas, it felt way to labor intensive. I've never bought a ripping chain before, anything specific i should look for? Not so much a complain but a question. Have you ever had your jug of bar oil thicken up to the point of molasses or caramel? My bar of Stihl oil was so thick i had to squeeze it like a ketchup bottle to get it out and into the saw. Once it was in the saw it seemed to warm up from the engine. It wasn't even that cold out, maybe 3-5 deg F.
Deck screws instead of nails. Screw in, screw out.
Ripping chain will make a smoother cut but not a faster one. The problem is your saw not the chain. 59cc is on the low end of sizes to mill wood. I did a bunch with a Stihl 361 but ended up getting a 660 for milling. Much better.
If you stick with your current saw you might consider getting a skip chain when the weather warms back up. It's easier on the saw's engine as it is dragging less teeth through the wood. It doesn't speed up the cutting though.
They make winter bar oil. As you would expect it flows better in the cold.
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 07:28pm
Reply
I just stumbled on some u-tube vids that suit this thread. Guy and his wife have built several 'practical' cabins in Alaska and Mich.
Check out the vids by:
Bushradical
Girl in the Woods
|
|
Brettny
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 07:51pm
Reply
I also watch bushradical. Girl in the woods not to much. If you watch her videos closely it's mostly all B roll stuff.
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 08:11pm
Reply
She does have skills and they make a great team; fun to watch. Bet she could hire out any day as a carpenters assistant.
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 09:27pm
Reply
Quoting: gcrank1 but dont use the 'permanent' (used to be red) or you wont (or WILL have trouble getting it off).
A propane torch, a small amount of heat on loctite red fastener will unlock it, doenst take much heat..
|
|
gcrank1
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 09:40pm - Edited by: gcrank1
Reply
Yep, it will.
Sadly, in the shop I had to deal with the remnants of the stripped out or snapped off head too many times  (so I urge caution).
|
|
Ontario lakeside
Member
|
# Posted: 26 Jan 2021 11:05pm
Reply
This is something I am keen to get into. We have mostly oak, very dense. I will be doing a lot of sharpening!
|
|
WILL1E
Moderator
|
# Posted: 27 Jan 2021 08:27am
Reply
Quoting: gcrank1 Check out the vids by: Bushradical Girl in the Woods
Yup, i've watched almost all of their stuff. They were contestants on the show ALONE...highly recommend if you get the chance to watch all the seasons. It's actually real unlike those other reality shows.
|
|
|
