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Type6ix
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 12:52pm
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My pressure tank is located under my Adirondack trailer.
In the winter, I only visit when the temperature goes above freezing during the day. I fill buckets of water from my yard hydrant then drain the pressure tank.
I was planning to add a curb stop between the yard hydrant and the pressure tank to get water. I realize that I would have to keep the hydrant open in order to prevent a dead head.
However, is it possible to just add a valve in the poly pipe where it emerges from the ground and before it reaches the tank?
The pipe is nearly vertical at that point and should drain underground.
If this would work it would be much cheaper.
Any thoughts?
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Alaskajohn
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 01:08pm
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I put in a bypass valve where the water comes into my cellar from the well before the pressure tank for this very purpose. It works great.
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Type6ix
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 02:09pm
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OK, but yours is below the frost line in the cellar.
Will the water before the valve be able to drain underground?
I think it should since I have a yard hydrant.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 03:25pm
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How would the water drain back if you put a valve in the basement?
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Type6ix
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 03:52pm
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It doesn't have to drain in the basement because it is below the front line.
My question is if I put a valve in the pipe between where it exits the ground and the water tank, will the water before the valve eventually migrate below ground when I shut off the submersible well pump.
I just want to be able to fill buckets of water from my yard hydrant in the winter without the water making it to my pressure tank.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 04:12pm - Edited by: Irrigation Guy
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It might, but if it’s full where would it go? I suppose if it was pumping against a closed valve near the tank it would compress the air when the pump was running then push it back out the hydrant when you shut it off but hard to say for sure. I would say the curb stop would be better if you can remember to not dead head the pump. I put a 1/4†valve just below the pitiless adapter with a rod that I can access under the well cap. You could also pop the pitiless up to drain the lateral back into the well.
**Edit**
To clarify the 1/4†valve is on a tee off of the drop pipe which when opened drains the entire system back into the well
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Type6ix
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 05:34pm
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I really want a Bison hand pump but they are so expensive.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 05:36pm
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How deep to water are you?
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Type6ix
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 06:55pm
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I think 80 feet
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 07:38pm
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I built a pvc hand pump with a few check valves and O rings for about $100 after getting a quote for a Bison or Simple pump.
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Type6ix
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 08:05pm
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That's awesome. Good for you.
I was thinking there had to be another way.
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 08:13pm
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Check out videos on you tube you will find it.
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gcrank1
Member
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# Posted: 20 Dec 2020 11:12pm
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I was considering the pvc hand pump until I discovered my 2 1/2"driven well pipe takes a curve about 20' down (my water is about 26' and Id have to go at least another 6' past static water level?). The way I envision those working they need a pretty straight drop, right?
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Irrigation Guy
Member
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# Posted: 21 Dec 2020 07:58am
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Quoting: gcrank1 I was considering the pvc hand pump until I discovered my 2 1/2"driven well pipe takes a curve about 20' down (my water is about 26' and Id have to go at least another 6' past static water level?). The way I envision those working they need a pretty straight drop, right?
I used 1.25†pvc and if it is a little bend it might work. Have you tried a pitcher pump? At 25’ static you are right on the cusp of a pitcher pump working.
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