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Ramblin Randy
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2020 04:59am - Edited by: Ramblin Randy
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Our family farm has a scenic log cabin/guest house that needs help and I'm concerned that if we do things backwards that moisture will soon lead to mold.  Would you be so kind, using prior experience when possible, to steer us and lead us forward.
Our cabin we’ve discovered is not original, it was probably a former barn that was trucked in and reassembled into a fishing cabin along the creekside in the 1940’s. It sits on a 15 degree slope, and has a very minimal foundation, and the backside logs touching the earth have rotted out due to poor rain water drainage. The bottom logs are 75-80% rotted out. The original plan was to “en-tomb†the rotted logs in concrete on the outside and underside leaving the interior log facing “as is†for cosmetics.
A well respected colonial restoration professional came to visit last month and gave his recommendations. He spent about 2 hours with us and the visit was one of the highlights of my summer of 2020. ( yea it’s been crazy here too ). With his permission I video taped the conversation as well. I’m rather curious to get a second opinion… wishing to compare your thoughts along side his.
At this very moment, and the clock is ticking because the concrete truck will be showing up soon, the lead on this project has reverted back to the original “entombing†the rotted logs in concrete. To prevent moisture, from weather fluctuations, it has been decided TO COAT THE DAMAGED LOGS IN TAR FIRST. So, is this tar and concrete plan acceptable ?
Thank you,
Randy
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Brettny
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2020 07:55am
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I would say your to far into this to turn back now.
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Bruces
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2020 07:59am
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I wouldn’t do it like that unless you are using this as a temporary fix to buy a little time .Concrete and lumber don’t mix which leaves the lumber rotten ,the tar will help but the damage is done and those lower logs are junk .I would replace the logs if I liked the cabin ,either by jacking and installingnew logs ,or dismantling the cabin and rebuilding it from the bottom replacing what is required as I went .
Not sure of how you approached the “pro†,if you
set it up as a temp fix ,or a no budget fix or what , but if that was not said and he suggested this repair he is a complete hack ,probably couldn’t make his own toast in the morning .
If you are trying to do it with no budget ,do the work yourself ,the cost will be minimal ,mostly labour and finding suitable logs .
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Ramblin Randy
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2020 08:16am - Edited by: Ramblin Randy
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Brettny... I have a little creed that I live by: "If a job is to begun, never leave it till it's done. Be the labor great or small, do it well or not at all". It's not about turning back, for me it's about doing it right.
Bruces... The restoration pro's advice: "To replace kind with same kind" His advice is to replace the logs with oak or locust logs. I have 3 lumber mills waiting for me to give them specifics. Also air flow and ventilation was of utmost importance.
The "parties" insisting on using concrete and tar comes from a local home builder with 30 years experience.
Budget.... my Mom wants to knock over the cabin and pull in a $30,000 modular cabin. I have memories with the cabin and I'm here fighting to do the job right. In 5 years the entire bedroom will be a mold and fungus jungle, and who wants to stay somewhere that makes you ill.
Thank you.
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Bruces
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2020 08:25am
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That makes a lot more sense .The pro is right .Since you wish to do it right ,call a full stop to the lazy mans disaster already started ,and come up with your own plan to properly replace the logs .If your mom still wants to drag in a new box ,it might be a great time to dismantle the old cabin ,and do the entire thing right .I am hoping you have room for both cabins in the end .
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Ramblin Randy
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2020 08:42am
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Bruces.... There used to be 3 summer cabins all in a row. No historic pictures exist, but you paint a good picture of the future.
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Brettny
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2020 12:14pm
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If you want to do it correctly I would replace any rotted wood and re grade behind the place so any wood stays high and dry. If the rain goes off the roof at the back side add a gutter and piping to get it away from the building.
Concrete is not waterproof and wood shouldn't be on concrete even if its PT. Separation of the two and allowing anything that's possibly going to get wet to dry will make it last longer.
Adding a big water catching shelf on the back isnt going to do you any favors. I have one on my house and had to replace alot of rim board prior to flashing and siding. You cant do that with a log building very easily.
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ICC
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2020 02:19pm
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Quoting: Bruces If your mom still wants to drag in a new box ,it might be a great time to dismantle the old cabin ,and do the entire thing right
I have a friend (mentioned above) who lives in a home he built from reclaimed square hewn logs from two different log structures that had been built sometime in the early 1800's. It is a very cool home, a blend of the old logs and new lap siding.
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neckless
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# Posted: 9 Nov 2020 05:43am
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just throwin this out there.....we have bin building houses for a long time starting with concrete with wood on top...lol
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Ramblin Randy
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# Posted: 9 Nov 2020 09:59am
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Pull up and chair and listen in… you’re about learn something today. I wanted to hear some other’s opinions before I introduced the advice and wisdom from our preservation guru Douglas Claytor. Some of you probably know him as he is one of the leading repair specialist in the field of 200 year old glass pane window repair. He has attended work shops all up and down the east coast and has put his able hands to work as both contractor and as a volunteer in many historic preservations both public and private.
Doug on his visit first gave us the run down and history of our structure immediately telling us this cabin was reassembled. That was sad news because I can no longer tell people that George Washington probably slept here LOL. His structural advice was consistent and made sense and was in two parts. First was the process, which was used in many state project restorations, was to always use the same materials that were originally used… so it’s best to replace the logs with some oak logs or better yet locust.
The most interesting knowledge he shared reaches into today’s building structures where we were informed about all the mold and moisture problems new housing is experiencing because the materials used today create air tight enclosures. In reality wood structures all need to breath and it’s now being considered to leave new homes without insulation in the walls and only insulate the floors and ceilings… leaving the structure to “breathâ€. My 100 year farm house has zero insulation in the wall and zero mold or milldue smells. I have one of the biggest wood stoves Fisher makes to over compensate LOL.
The second tidbit of advice given that day was to leave some vents in the foundation so that air can travel thru and under the home during rainy times. The vents could be blocked in the winter to keep the floors a bit warmer, or maybe just get some big rugs..! So there you have it folks… ventilation is key to your 200 year old structure as well as your home today. Will we put the stop on the concrete plan and do the job right only time will tell. I harken back to that tv commerial for Fram oil filters and how they used to warn us: “You can pay me NOW, or you can pay me LATERâ€.
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Ramblin Randy
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# Posted: 9 Nov 2020 10:00am
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And one last motivation... I want to fill the bedroom with some original artwork and prints with a unique theme paying tribute to the local Native Americans who used the location also as a fishing camp. Mold and mildew will wreck my investment in the prints and art. Here is a print by James Ayers called "Two Souls" that I'd like to purchase and frame...
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