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eligh
Member
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2019 08:07am - Edited by: eligh
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Hi,
I'm thinking about building a 6x8 structure that will first be used by my kids as a playhouse then after 2-3 years when they out grow it I'll use it as a cabin or shed.
I'm thinking about the following framing. I wanted to do 24o.c. but the 6ft wall wasn't so generous.
Here is a sketch of my 6ft wall
https://i.ibb.co/grzzT99/Screenshot-20190916-070143.png
Here is a sketch of my 8ft wall
https://i.ibb.co/qrd3nnW/Screenshot-20190916-070221.png
Let me know what you think
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Duhmojo
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2019 09:40am
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What kind of roof are you looking to do? If you plan to build roof trusses this would be ok because they each come with a runner tying that truss together and the majority of any overhead force is down. If you intend to do a more open ceiling, then make sure to include some collar ties or a center beam along the peak of the roof. I would double up the 48" 2x4 at least. They will warp and bend. Doubling will limit that. Depending on where you place your door and windows, you'll end up with more structural strength when you frame for them and it might be fine.
Finally, you should include more context. Will the roof be shoulder any load? (e.g. snow)
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eligh
Member
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2019 10:23am
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No snow.
This is in South Texas.
I'm thinking a simple slanted roof.
Using 2x4 rafters to put a few corrugated zinc roof panels on top.
No plywood just roof panels on the rafters.
This is a kids playhouse then will be used to store lawnmowers and garden equipment.
Mainly need to keep the rain and creepy crawlies out.
I can double the center stud (48") or I can just move to 16" oc which will give more strength as well.
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Duhmojo
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2019 12:48pm - Edited by: Duhmojo
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I vote for doubling or framing the door/windows where the roof framing will need it. For the roof I wouldn't run a 10' 2x4 unsupported from the back to the front for a sloped roof. You'll want to support the middle at least so it doesn't sag over time, and it will. So doubling at 48" with a standing cross support mid way down the roof slope is important.
If you use a corrugated roof only (not ply with corrugated on top) you'll have to consider 2 things. You can build a roof frame with trusses and purlins (the strapping along the truss that your roof will sit) but you should consider how to keep animals/birds out. Corrugated roofs on purlins only are hard to close up. Yes there are a bunch of "how tos" and videos but they pretty much all ignore that the corrugated is open on the ends. Even on top of ply wood birds and squirrels can get in and setup shop under the roof alone. With nothing under neither you'll want to figure out how to sheet up the exterior.
Even if you used cheap fence boards (instead of ply) across the trusses (instead of purlins) you would have a chance to close it up, then throw the corrugated roof on top.
Maybe for now your kid will enjoy door and window openings, but when you want to turn it into a shed you'll want to keep things and people out. There's no point in installing doors and windows if animals can get in and take a dump all over the place.
Just my 2 cents.
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rockies
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# Posted: 16 Sep 2019 07:42pm - Edited by: rockies
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I would go to 16" OC for the structure. For such a small building the cost would be very small. I would also use 2x6 for the rafters just in case you walk around up there someday. After all, a 2x4 is really only 3 1/2" thick.
There are corrugated wooden filler strips that sit on top of the walls to close up the ends.
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eligh
Member
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# Posted: 17 Sep 2019 04:05am
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Here's another idea...
http://howtospecialist.com/outdoor/shed/6x8-lean-to-storage-shed-plans/
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sparky30_06
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# Posted: 17 Sep 2019 06:54am
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Rockies is right, for that small of a structure there is no advantage to doing 24" oc. 2x4 16 oc for the wallls and 2x6 for floor and roof at a minimum. Especially if you want to use it for a cabin later you will want to insulate it. In my deer blinds in south Texas we insulate the walls and ceiling.
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eligh
Member
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# Posted: 18 Sep 2019 05:52am
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So doubling at 48" with a standing cross support mid way down the roof slope is important
I'm not following this, standing cross support, I have an idea of what you're talking about but will need to Google.
I guess I could simply use 2x6 roof rafters and not need the SCC to prevent sagging
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eligh
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# Posted: 18 Sep 2019 07:59am
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I want to do a 32 inch door in the middle of the shorter 6' side.
Will this sag in the middle?
I'm double studding at 16 and 48 inches to allow for door framing as well as give more overall structural rigidity
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 18 Sep 2019 08:18am
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Just do 16" centers on studs, how much money we talking for the entire structure?, maybe under $30? You will get well over $30 in added strength and just lots of other options for shelves etc. Plus a stronger support for your roof. Dont trip over a dollar to pick up a nickel my dad would say.
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eligh
Member
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# Posted: 18 Sep 2019 11:38am
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Just do 16" centers on studs, how much money we talking for the entire structure?, maybe under $30? You will get well over $30 in added strength and just lots of other options for shelves etc. Plus a stronger support for your roof. Dont trip over a dollar to pick up a nickel my dad would say.
16 oc will be used
I might even do 12 oc
I've moved on to determining if the width of my door on the 6' wall will be too wide or if I have enough bracing with double studs at 16 and 48"
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Duhmojo
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# Posted: 18 Sep 2019 04:14pm
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There's little need for 2x6 with this size. As long as there are no long lengths of 2x4 with lateral weight so they'll sag, he'll be fine. Additionally, for this structure, even if he insulates (he's in Texas) 2x4 insulation is fine. It's not a cottage with a wood fire place or A/C. Even then our "ancestors" survived fine in the 40s through 1990s with 4 bedroom, 2 storey 2x4 homes and insulation.
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Duhmojo
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# Posted: 18 Sep 2019 04:16pm
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You should update your diagrams with the door/window framing. I mentioned this before, but the framing for the openings will need more studs. The strict 16 vs 24 OC studs are only for completely solid walls.
If you are attaching plywood, it'll stiffen those 2x4s up fine.
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sparky30_06
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# Posted: 19 Sep 2019 06:48am
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Duhmojo
Insulation is important down here in Texas especially in the summer. We need to keep that hot air from coming into our conditioned air space. Heat loss works both ways
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Duhmojo
Member
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# Posted: 19 Sep 2019 09:21am
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Will this 6x8 shed be air conditioned? Even if, is a 2x6 stud frame for a 6'x8' shed not way overkill just for insulation sake? Unless insulation only comes 5.5" deep in Texas, you'll have plenty of space in a 2x4 frame for whatever you want. Insulation of course comes in different thicknesses.
Additionally, you can't leave the insulation exposed on the inside. I mean you can, but XPS/EPS is supposed to be covered by code because its flammable and spreads fast if uncovered. If you do batten insulation you can vapor it up, but if his kid is playing in there it should probably be covered up. In both cases, a 2x6 frame will be mostly empty air.
Also consider that doors/windows are more expensive for 2x6 walls. They need kits to extend a 2x4 frame door, or you need to build up the brick mold yourself.
For what eligh is looking at doing, a 2x4 frame (properly supported with plywood sheeting) is plenty strong, with lots of space for whatever insulation he might want. Even in Texas there was a time when a home didn't come with insulation, A/C, and 2x6 studs.
My 2 cents. I don't want to argue, I'm just making a case that 2x6 framing is unnecessary for a project like this.
I'm from Canada and it gets both very hot and very hot. Insulation in my cottage (which is north facing and has a beautiful view of the sunset that roasted us when it was just a log cabin) is a must and I framed it with 2x6 and bought the best insulation because its a living space. I wouldn't frame the bunk house with 2x6 though, and insulation would depend on how much direct sunlight it was exposed to.
Anyways, good luck with the project eligh. Just make sure your base is solid!
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Brettny
Member
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# Posted: 19 Sep 2019 09:31am
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You need a header over that door. Look up proper framing in your area.
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Duhmojo
Member
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# Posted: 19 Sep 2019 09:37am - Edited by: Duhmojo
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Maybe my SCC wording isn't proper roofing language. I was just trying to be descriptive.
If you want a sloped roof you'll have to approach the design from 2 ways. Either you need to build it with ceiling joists, or have it open, but run a cross beam under the rafters mid-way that's supported on top of your walls. e.g. picture your sloped roof, on the high side there's a small wall that's taller than the low side, in the middle of the slope, you have a cross beam that's supported on the side walls by a post. This is to prevent the roof from sagging. With a truss design where you have ceiling joists (the truss looks like a complete triangle, and the joist is the bottom of the triangle) you'll typically add a queen post and or a stud to support the slope, but it can be attached to the joist, so you don't need to run a cross beam under every rafter (like with my 1st open slope roof description).
I suggested this because you were working with 2x4s. If you do the roof rafters with 2x6, you probably don't been to bother with a cross beam to support the middle.
Ok that's it. Sorry to post so much. I just joined and I guess I'm too excited.
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eligh
Member
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# Posted: 19 Sep 2019 05:19pm
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sparky30_06
Member
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# Posted: 20 Sep 2019 11:25am
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eligh
where you located here in Texas? I'm northwest of Houston and might be able to help you out
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eligh
Member
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2019 06:38am
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This is what I had in mind as far as simple roof
Instead of steel beams they will be wood
But see how the corrugated simply lays on top of the beam?
All I'd need to do is seal those gaps and I should be ok
This pic was taken in Houston by the way
Zero snow load
But a bunch of rain (Thanks Imelda)
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 22 Sep 2019 04:24pm
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Any place that sells that metal roofing will also have the metal foam strips that match the profile for the holes, will keep bug out, but still kind of breath. It usually have a sticky part that goes under the metal, just stick it on the metal where is aligns with the beam.
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sparky30_06
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# Posted: 26 Sep 2019 07:30am
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eligh
I'm just west of Tomball and can help you out with your design and build if you need.
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