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Rifraf
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# Posted: 3 Apr 2012 00:19 - Edited by: Rifraf
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I never considered t111 for interior use until i ran into this photo
click to see
Now im almost sold, a little stain and gloss and that ceiling would really look nice i think.. time to check t111 T&G panel prices 
what do you all think of this ??
Edit : this is the closest item i could find at a national home impovement store.
Lowes link
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Icebear
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# Posted: 3 Apr 2012 03:13
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Something you might want to think about is the joins between the sheets... Personally I like mixing the joins up like TG&V BUT that is just my personal preference.
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VC_fan
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# Posted: 3 Apr 2012 09:40
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For what it's worth, T111 is heavy and awkward and I'd suspect the roughness would make it a hassle to keep cobweb free. I did something similar with very thin (5 mm) utility panels that were awkward but not heavy and was very happy with the results. But if you like the look, have at it! That's the whole beauty of building your own cabin.
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Rifraf
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# Posted: 3 Apr 2012 10:39 - Edited by: Rifraf
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VC_fan,
Thanks, yeah I was already wondering on its weight, the roughness I do like though if I were to use them I would stain and poly coat them for easy cleaning later.
A sort or wainscotting panelling would also look good , is this the type of 5mm paneling you are referring to ?
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MtnDon
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# Posted: 3 Apr 2012 10:51
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I've seen thinner (3/8 ?) at times. Also if cut into 4x4 ft squares it is easier to handle. Then nail 1x battens over the seams.
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dvgchef
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# Posted: 4 Apr 2012 06:41
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I seem to remember a warning label on T111 about not for indoor use. You may want to double check that.
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Rifraf
Member
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# Posted: 4 Apr 2012 10:01
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perhaps thats the presssure treated or specially treated t1111
The panels ive been looking at dont appear to have anything special done to them.
Thank you for the heads up though I will be sure to ask the location about that if I decide to use them.
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VC_fan
Member
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# Posted: 4 Apr 2012 17:11
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The stuff I'm referring to was about $10/sheet at Lowe's and called a "utility panel". It's interior-only and has very pretty grain on one side. I did the walls and the ceiling with it, and trimmed it with 1x2 or 1x3 furring strips as someone else suggested. I put on just one coat of poly on the first floor walls - didn't want to change the look too much. Next time I'm at the shack I'll take a couple of pictures.
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 4 Apr 2012 19:43
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T1-11 is heavy, but it also comes in 3/8" think. I know, I used it on the underside of my covered porch. I used the no groove stuff. Light enough to work with easily. AS little pricey. The stuff I used was not strand board, it was plywood laminate. I think the grooved stuff would look great on the ceiling.
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jjlrrw
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# Posted: 12 Jun 2012 17:05
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The main thing I would be concerned about is the 4' seem line, I was in the same boat and decided to go with pine T&G the cost was ~$0.85 SF not much more than what your looking at with the T111.
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OwenChristensen
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# Posted: 12 Jun 2012 17:43
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It works great, I've done it for years, with the 5/8'' thick. It's solid and paints up real nice.
Owen
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VC_fan
Member
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# Posted: 12 Jun 2012 20:28
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I finally got over to the shack, remembered to take a picture of the ceiling, AND remembered to post it. I talked about this someplace else ... unlike everybody else's cabin, ours isn't perfectly square, plumb, or anything else. I weighed the option of trimming each sheet to fall over the rafters, etc, etc, etc, and decided that if the stuff was only 5 mm thick I should just be able to overlap the sheets. Unless you're in the loft staring right at it, you'd never notice that I've taken this major shortcut. I'm happy with the result and would do it again. FYI, rafters are 2x6 with the standard insulation for 2x4 construction. Some of this has been stapled, some is just friction fit in place, and some is held by the thin plywood. There may be some minor bulging here and there but for a cabin/shack it works just fine. Before somebody points it out, I guess it's not up to code since it doesn't have the drywall as a fire barrier.
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OwenChristensen
Member
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# Posted: 12 Jun 2012 20:42
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Actually knotty pine's not that much more.
Owen
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Rifraf
Member
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# Posted: 12 Jun 2012 20:48
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thanks for the pics, ive already used knotty pine car siding on my lower ceiling, I really like how that turned out .
The t1-11 you put up looks nice
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Sustainusfarm
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# Posted: 12 Jun 2012 23:11
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I used it on my ceiling too! I do remember using a stiff bristle broom to brush it off first before I put it up because it had alot of rough particles stuck to it. Sorry...I will get a pic this weekend and post next week...it has been up for 15 yrs now and has aged just like pine to a gloden color...I did not use any stain or clear coat at all.
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Sustainusfarm
Member
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# Posted: 13 Jun 2012 20:34
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I found a picture of the upstairs subfloor that I have exposed on the first floor...
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adakseabee
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# Posted: 14 Jun 2012 12:29
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Sustainusfarm, the sub-floor of T-1-11 left exposed as ceiling looks great, better than plain plywood! Will you be staining or painting it? I hope that you don't cover it.
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TheCabinCalls
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# Posted: 14 Jun 2012 14:59
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We wanted to the same look. So we just installed 2x6 TG pine boards. It is the flooring for upstairs and ceiling down below (joists exposed). Two birds type of deal.
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Sustainusfarm
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# Posted: 19 Jun 2012 23:02
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adakseabee, this is an old picture of when we started our build...i wanted to leave it natural so no paint or stain...it has aged just like knotty pine and now has a nice orangey glow to it as do the beams. you can see more on my thread "central wisconsin cabin build".
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toyota_mdt_tech
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# Posted: 20 Jun 2012 00:43
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Quoting: Sustainusfarm I found a picture of the upstairs subfloor that I have exposed on the first floor...
I see you didnt use the 92 5/8" studs on the wall, but the full 96".
As for the ceiling, it looks good, almost dont want to cover it up with insulation.
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Anonymous
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# Posted: 20 Jun 2012 09:54
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TMT, Not sure what you mean about the studs I used?? the ceiling is not going to be isulated either...
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