|
| Author |
Message |
Mushroom Man
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Apr 2017 10:06pm - Edited by: Mushroom Man
Reply
Ok. I am better understanding my foundation. I'm using 6" post placed into a 8" concrete sleeve. Cut it even and place a 6x6" by 12' pressure treated post horizontally. Is this correct? How should I fasten the horizontal beam to the posts? Mending Plates?
PS...Should I forget the post and use a metal 'tie' to fasten the horizontal 6x6 direction to the concrete?
Thank you!
|
|
rockies
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Apr 2017 10:48pm - Edited by: rockies
Reply
I've read that encasing wooden posts in concrete is a bad idea. If you're pouring concrete piers (use something like a footing tube) then just set the metal U bracket in the top while the concrete's still wet.
I wouldn't even use short wooden posts in the metal brackets. Just run the beam across the tops of the concrete piers and anchor the beam to the piers with the brackets.
Concrete Pier with Bracket
|  | | |
|
|
DaveBell
Moderator
|
# Posted: 13 Apr 2017 11:17pm
Reply
Agree Rockies.
If you can get all the tubes level, you can do the beams. On a slope, then vertical 4x4 or 6x6 and cut the posts to level.
|
|
Tyndra
Member
|
# Posted: 13 Apr 2017 11:45pm
Reply
Something to consider is that a solid post as a beam may be prone to splitting and twisting. If you already have them then they will work, but 2 or 3 boards laminated together will adequate and not prone to those issue. It all comes down to what you have on hand and what you want to spend money and time on.
|
|
bldginsp
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Apr 2017 12:10am
Reply
I agree with Rockies but bringing the concrete piers up high to the beams takes a lot more concrete. It's easier to reach that distance with wood, and easier to level out because you can easily cut the posts. At a minimum the concrete should extend 8" above the soil to keep the bottom of the posts above the dirt so they won't rot.
The advantage to setting the posts into the concrete as you suggest Mushroom Man is that they become very rigid and provide more lateral stability. But the rot factor supersedes this, since they would rot out fairly quickly, since concrete is pourous and will keep the wood wet. Alternatives here would include using very large treated posts, like sections of utility poles, direct buried in the earth with no concrete. Expensive, but you need none or little concrete. Utilities generally regard their treated poles as lasting 60 years. Upended railroad ties might work, but not used ones unless they are in like new condition.
Another alternative would be to find steel piping of at least 3" in diameter, schedule 40 or comparable, and set that in concrete vertically instead of wood for the pier posts. Now you have the lateral stability of a pole in the earth with no rot factor to worry about. I found several hundred feet of hot dipped galvanized 3" sch. 40 electrical conduit on craigslist for $27/10ft length which I plan to stick in the earth for deer fence posts. In many parts of the country old drill piping is available from oil fields. It's dirty and you never want to use this stuff for drinking water, but it's a lot of steel pretty cheap.
Just throwing out ideas.
|
|
Mushroom Man
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Apr 2017 06:38am
Reply
Great advise! I don't have the material yet. I will be purchasing this month but want to get the design down for the foundation, and the sub-floor, before moving forward.
Thank you everyone!!!
Mushroom Man
|
|
Mushroom Man
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Apr 2017 08:40am
Reply
DaveBell
I'm going to get the 'lay of the land' in a week or two.
Thank you!
|
|
toyota_mdt_tech
Member
|
# Posted: 14 Apr 2017 09:04am
Reply
Mushroom man, I like the concrete piers, dont worry about the cost, this is the time to spend a little extra, this is the toughest part to go back and fix later when a cabin sets on top of it. Look into a "water level"
I seen a guy use a large 5 gallon bucket, with a barbed spicket on the bottom. He hook a vinyl clear tube on it and them filled bucket with water, added food coloring to get green, but red would be visable too.
Now set the bucket up, makr water level in bucket, elevate it to desired level and then the water column in the end of the tube will be the same, you can walk around your piers to level them all up. I would add a shut off valve at the end of the tube so it doesnt fall and run out, but when you use it to level, just make sure valve is opened at the end. Get all holes dug and tube in, adjust using this trick. Small final adjustments to girders can be made with this door shims, but this should get you pretty close. The final design plan looks good.
Just make sure the post are in alignment, use a lazer to shoot a line to set in metal girder anchor. and they are square and parallel to each other. Then its smooth sailing from there. You could just do the first one, let it set up, then use it for your reference ie set laze on it to key the rest off of the first one.
Maybe lazer off it, then do end one, then a tight strign between to set up center ones.
|
|
|
fitzpatt
Member
|
# Posted: 19 Apr 2017 08:39am
Reply
I poured piers last year and rented a laser level. It was the best investment I could have made for precision. I also decided to use adjustable supports for the fine-tuning of beam level. I simply poured, placed and supported the supports with some 1x2's. Also after you pour I would wet some rags an place them on top of the concrete piers while they cure. A week should do.
|
|
|
